One of the two most popular roof designs, if not the most
popular is the hip roof. Not only does it add architectural
lines to the design of a house, but it also offers more
protection from the elements to walls, windows, and doors,
when framed with a generous overhang. It also lends more
to the structural integrity of a home with its rafters
tying off to all four corners and walls of the structure.
A hip roof is a little more complex to frame than a gable
roof. Besides a ridge board, a gable roof has only common
rafters (all rafters the same length) as its only components.
The components of a hip roof are the ridge board, common
rafters, hip rafters, and jack rafters. The hip roof does
not always have a ridge board. If the building is a square
with all four walls being the same length, there will be no
ridge and the roof will resemble a pyramid.
When cutting the common, hip and jack rafters, their lengths
can be determined by using a calculator or a rafter table
book like "The Full Length Roof Framer". Not only does it contain all the necessary rafter tables, but also the secrets to cutting a roof. The length of the
ridge can be determined by subtracting the width of the
building from its length. For example, if the building is
30 x 24, the ridge will be 6 feet in length. If the ridge
board is 1 1/2" thick (which is usually the case), then 1 1/2"
needs to be added to the ridge length. This is because all
common rafters are shortened half the thickness of the ridge
or 3/4". This allows the top of the common rafters to line up
with the top of the ridge at each end.
When framing a hip roof, always start with the common
rafters. This will place the ridge in its proper location.
This part of the roof is framed like a gable roof, but the
similarity ends there.
Start by nailing common rafters on one side of the ridge at
each end. Now raise the ridge and nail two rafters on the other
side of the ridge opposite the first two rafters. Once this is
done, push the ridge up so the birdsmouth cuts pull in tight to
the walls on each side of the building. These rafters can now be
nailed to the wall in their corresponding locations in relation
to the ridge. Now nail the two common rafters to the center of
the end walls and to the ends of the ridge board. This will lock
the ridge in its exact location. The rest of the common rafters
can be nailed to the wall and ridge board.
The next parts to be installed are the four hip rafters.
These are nailed on the outside corners of the buildings walls
and in the intersection made by the end and first common rafter
where they meet at the ridge. With the hips and common rafters in
place, its easy to see why this makes for such a strong and solid
roof.
With the hip rafters in place the jack rafters can be installed.
Before nailing on the first jack rafter, a string must be run from
the plumb cut on the hip rafter to just above the birdsmouth. This
can be done by driving a nail in the center of the hip at the above
mentioned locations. Tie the string to one nail, pull it tight, and
secure it to the other nail. This is to ensure the hip rafter stays
straight during the jack rafter installation. As the jacks are
nailed on, the string should be kept at the center of the hip. To
help keep the hip rafter straight, the jack rafters should be nailed
on in pairs, first one side of the hip, then its mate on the other.
This process is continued all the way down the the hip rafter till
all jack rafters are installed on both sides of the hip. Remove the
string and repeat this procedure on the remaining three hip rafters
to complete the framing of the roof.
Collar ties and fascia boards will need to be installed before the
roof can be sheathed, but these are the basic steps to framing a
hip roof.
Mike Merisko (C)2007
www.sawkerfs.com
Monday, April 30, 2007
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
Nail Guns:To Use Or Not To Use
Whether you call them nail guns, air nailers, pneumatic air nailers, or just nailers, these tools have become a big part in the homebuilding process. Many if not all aspects of framing a house can be accomplished using a framing nailer. Most framing nailers shoot a wide range of different size nails, from 2" to 3 1/2" nails (6d to16d). Not only can these guns save time in framing a house but they can also save wear and tear on a framers wrist, elbow and shoulder.
Starting with the sill plate, the nail gun can be used to nail the floor joists to them. With the right nose on the safety, the joists can be toe nailed to the sill plate. The safety has a sawtooth configuration which allows it to dig into the work and not slide off during the toe nail shot. The nail gun can then be used to nail on the rim joists using 16d nails.
After the joists are nailed in, its time for the tongue and groove decking. To nail this down by hammer can be labor intensive. Time and labor can be saved by using a nail gun. The plywood or OSB can be tacked in place and one person can follow and nail off all the decking (using 8d nails).
When it comes to walls an air powered nailer can really be put to the task. A framing contractor may want to utilize two guns in this situation. Nail guns also come in handy when nailing the door and window headers together. A header for an opening as small as 36 inches can have as many as two dozen nails. A house can have 20 or more headers that size or larger. That can be a lot of 16d nails to drive by hand, not to mention the time it would take.
If the walls are to be sheathed with plywood, nail guns can cut your time down here too. Just like the plywood on the deck, time and labor can be saved using a nail gun.
Even though walls may be framed a little quicker using nail guns, there are still carpenters and contractors who still would rather frame walls by hand nailing. The reasoning behind this is they feel the joint between the plate and the stud ends can be drawn up tighter than with a gun. In some instances this is true.
When it comes to ceiling joists and rafters, hand nailing may be the preferred framing method. Ceiling joists and rafters involve a lot of toe nailing to fasten them to the top plate. Some carpenters feel it is easier to draw joists and rafters tighter to the plate and to the line nailing by hand. Using a nail gun could be awkward working at that height (two story) and dragging a hose around the framing could be a challenge. The hose could be a trip hazzard. Nailing the rafters to the ridge board is easier with a nail gun, especially if it involves nailing overhead, but there is still the hose to contend with.
Like the plywood on the deck and walls, nailing the plywood off on the roof is quicker with a nail gun. It can be done just like the deck. Tack it down and then have one man nail off the rest with the nail gun.
Nail guns aren't the answer for every homebuilding task,but they definitely have their place on the job. They can save time, labor and wear and tear on the body on certain parts of the process.
Mike Merisko (c) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
Starting with the sill plate, the nail gun can be used to nail the floor joists to them. With the right nose on the safety, the joists can be toe nailed to the sill plate. The safety has a sawtooth configuration which allows it to dig into the work and not slide off during the toe nail shot. The nail gun can then be used to nail on the rim joists using 16d nails.
After the joists are nailed in, its time for the tongue and groove decking. To nail this down by hammer can be labor intensive. Time and labor can be saved by using a nail gun. The plywood or OSB can be tacked in place and one person can follow and nail off all the decking (using 8d nails).
When it comes to walls an air powered nailer can really be put to the task. A framing contractor may want to utilize two guns in this situation. Nail guns also come in handy when nailing the door and window headers together. A header for an opening as small as 36 inches can have as many as two dozen nails. A house can have 20 or more headers that size or larger. That can be a lot of 16d nails to drive by hand, not to mention the time it would take.
If the walls are to be sheathed with plywood, nail guns can cut your time down here too. Just like the plywood on the deck, time and labor can be saved using a nail gun.
Even though walls may be framed a little quicker using nail guns, there are still carpenters and contractors who still would rather frame walls by hand nailing. The reasoning behind this is they feel the joint between the plate and the stud ends can be drawn up tighter than with a gun. In some instances this is true.
When it comes to ceiling joists and rafters, hand nailing may be the preferred framing method. Ceiling joists and rafters involve a lot of toe nailing to fasten them to the top plate. Some carpenters feel it is easier to draw joists and rafters tighter to the plate and to the line nailing by hand. Using a nail gun could be awkward working at that height (two story) and dragging a hose around the framing could be a challenge. The hose could be a trip hazzard. Nailing the rafters to the ridge board is easier with a nail gun, especially if it involves nailing overhead, but there is still the hose to contend with.
Like the plywood on the deck and walls, nailing the plywood off on the roof is quicker with a nail gun. It can be done just like the deck. Tack it down and then have one man nail off the rest with the nail gun.
Nail guns aren't the answer for every homebuilding task,but they definitely have their place on the job. They can save time, labor and wear and tear on the body on certain parts of the process.
Mike Merisko (c) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
Installing An Exterior Door
Installing an exterior door is one of the easiest of all door installations. Whether the door is installed in new construction or in a replacement situation, there are a few factors that make this an easy task.
The biggest reason this is a simple operation is that these doors come prehung. What this means is the door is already hung in its jamb. The hinges are mortised into the door and jamb and screwed in place. The door is held in position by the hinge pins, leaving the perfect reveal around the door and the jambs top and sides. The holes are also bored for the lockset and if necessary, for the deadbolt too. Exterior doors come in wood, fiberglass, and the most popular, steel. The two sizes are normaly used for exterior doors are 32" and 36". With the sizes of todays furniture and appliances the smart choice is the 36" door. The standard height for a door is 6'8" but taller ones can be special ordered.
The exterior trim comes nailed to the jamb. This trim, called brickmoulding, is mitred and already installed, saving the installer(s) another step. These doors also have an aluminum threshold already attached to the legs of the jambs. All these things make the door and jamb one cohesive unit.
The standard jamb size is 4 and 1/2 inches wide. With the demand for a higher insulation R value in exterior walls, 2x6 framing is being used more frequently. Jambs to fit these walls, 6 1/2 inches, are becoming more common. Jamb widths can be made to order for whatever a projects needs are and would cost more.
To install an exterior door, first check to see if the rough opening is correct. The width of the opening should be 2" wider than the door itself (38" for a 36" door, 34" for a 32" door). For a rough opening height 83" will suffice for most door manufacturers. Also check to see if the framing and floor is reasonably plumb.
Door installation is easier with 2 people but can be done alone. Put the door in the opening from the outside. If you are working alone, tack the door to the wall through the brickmoulding, not driving the nails home. I like to use galvenized ring shank splitless nails that are used for cedar siding. They don't split the wood and the smaller heads are not as obvious to the eye. The ring shank feature gives them great holding power.
With the door tacked in the opening, go to the inside of the door and check the reveals around the door. There should be about an eighth of an inch all around the door. Shim the jambs of the door so the reveals are right. Check the door jamb on the hinge side for plumb. If it is not plumb, then the floor is out of level. One jamb leg or the other will need to be shimmed so the threshold is level. Now readjust the reveals by moving the door and jambs sideways in the opening to a point where the reveals are right. Once the door and jamb are in position, shim the jamb at each hinge and at the strike, top and bottom on the strike side. Nail the shims in place by nailing through the jamb, through the shims and into the framing. Check the door swing to see if it opens and closes properly. If all is well, go outside and nail through the brickmould using the splitless nails to nail the door frame to the house.
Most door manufacturers provide long screws that replace some of the shorter screws in the hinges on the jamb. The top hinge is the most important place to use one or two of these screws.
These screws go through the jamb and into the framing and keep the door from sagging over time.
Most doors come with an adjustable threshold. This may have to be adjusted up or down to create an airtight seal.
With the door securely in the opening, it is ready for door hardware installation.
Mike Merisko (c) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
The biggest reason this is a simple operation is that these doors come prehung. What this means is the door is already hung in its jamb. The hinges are mortised into the door and jamb and screwed in place. The door is held in position by the hinge pins, leaving the perfect reveal around the door and the jambs top and sides. The holes are also bored for the lockset and if necessary, for the deadbolt too. Exterior doors come in wood, fiberglass, and the most popular, steel. The two sizes are normaly used for exterior doors are 32" and 36". With the sizes of todays furniture and appliances the smart choice is the 36" door. The standard height for a door is 6'8" but taller ones can be special ordered.
The exterior trim comes nailed to the jamb. This trim, called brickmoulding, is mitred and already installed, saving the installer(s) another step. These doors also have an aluminum threshold already attached to the legs of the jambs. All these things make the door and jamb one cohesive unit.
The standard jamb size is 4 and 1/2 inches wide. With the demand for a higher insulation R value in exterior walls, 2x6 framing is being used more frequently. Jambs to fit these walls, 6 1/2 inches, are becoming more common. Jamb widths can be made to order for whatever a projects needs are and would cost more.
To install an exterior door, first check to see if the rough opening is correct. The width of the opening should be 2" wider than the door itself (38" for a 36" door, 34" for a 32" door). For a rough opening height 83" will suffice for most door manufacturers. Also check to see if the framing and floor is reasonably plumb.
Door installation is easier with 2 people but can be done alone. Put the door in the opening from the outside. If you are working alone, tack the door to the wall through the brickmoulding, not driving the nails home. I like to use galvenized ring shank splitless nails that are used for cedar siding. They don't split the wood and the smaller heads are not as obvious to the eye. The ring shank feature gives them great holding power.
With the door tacked in the opening, go to the inside of the door and check the reveals around the door. There should be about an eighth of an inch all around the door. Shim the jambs of the door so the reveals are right. Check the door jamb on the hinge side for plumb. If it is not plumb, then the floor is out of level. One jamb leg or the other will need to be shimmed so the threshold is level. Now readjust the reveals by moving the door and jambs sideways in the opening to a point where the reveals are right. Once the door and jamb are in position, shim the jamb at each hinge and at the strike, top and bottom on the strike side. Nail the shims in place by nailing through the jamb, through the shims and into the framing. Check the door swing to see if it opens and closes properly. If all is well, go outside and nail through the brickmould using the splitless nails to nail the door frame to the house.
Most door manufacturers provide long screws that replace some of the shorter screws in the hinges on the jamb. The top hinge is the most important place to use one or two of these screws.
These screws go through the jamb and into the framing and keep the door from sagging over time.
Most doors come with an adjustable threshold. This may have to be adjusted up or down to create an airtight seal.
With the door securely in the opening, it is ready for door hardware installation.
Mike Merisko (c) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Rafters - The Three Most Common Types
For any carpenter in residential construction that cuts roofs for a living, day in and day out, there are three types of rafters that he will constantly see. These are the common rafter, the hip/valley rafter, and the jack rafter.
The common rafter is the main rafter in any roof. The common rafter sits on top of the wall, its length meets the ridgeboard at the center of the building, making up half the span. The best example of this type of rafter is the gable roof. The gable roof is made up of nothing but common rafters. A gable roof is the easiest roof to cut and frame of any other type of roof. All common rafters are the same length from the plumb cut to the birdsmouth, and usually all have the same length tail.
The second most framed roof is the hip roof. The hip roof uses all three types of rafters mentioned here. The hip roof has no gable end to frame, but instead, has a roof that slopes to all 4 sides of the house. The main element in a hip roof is the common rafter. The amount of common rafters in a hip roof varies with the length and width of the building. For example, if a building has four equal sides (20x20, 24x24, etc.) the hip roof would resemble a pyramid and has four common rafters, one on each wall. The longer the length of the building the more common rafters there will be and the longer the ridgeboard will be.
What makes a hip roof? The hip rafter. If a building is square or rectangular there will be four hip rafters. The birdsmouth of a hip rafter sits right on the corner of the building. Its length slopes up at a 45 degree angle to where two commons meet the ridgeboard and make a 90 degree angle. The size of a hip rafter is determined by the size of the common rafter. If the common rafter is a 2x8, rule of thumb and most building codes call for the hip to be the next size up, in this case a 2x10.
A valley rafter has the same characteristics as a hip rafter except instead of originating at an outside corner, its birdsmouth sits where two walls create an inside corner. This situation is created when roofs run perpendicular to one another. These roofs slope to the valley rafter which bisects these roofs at a 45 degree angle.
Where there are hip or valley rafters, there are jack rafters. Jack rafters complete the framing on a hip roof from the hip to the top plate, starting a the common rafter down to the top plate or tail of the hip rafter. The tails of the jack rafter are cut the same as a common rafter. The plumb cut is the same pitch as a common rafter but cut at a 45 degree angle (compound angle) to match up with the angle of the hip.
With valley rafters, jack rafters usually start at a ridge and terminate at the valley. The cut at the ridge is a normal plumb cut. The cut at the valley is a plumb cut but the long point is at the bottom of the rafter and cut at a 45 degree angle (compound angle) to match the valley angle.
Mike Merisko (C) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
The common rafter is the main rafter in any roof. The common rafter sits on top of the wall, its length meets the ridgeboard at the center of the building, making up half the span. The best example of this type of rafter is the gable roof. The gable roof is made up of nothing but common rafters. A gable roof is the easiest roof to cut and frame of any other type of roof. All common rafters are the same length from the plumb cut to the birdsmouth, and usually all have the same length tail.
The second most framed roof is the hip roof. The hip roof uses all three types of rafters mentioned here. The hip roof has no gable end to frame, but instead, has a roof that slopes to all 4 sides of the house. The main element in a hip roof is the common rafter. The amount of common rafters in a hip roof varies with the length and width of the building. For example, if a building has four equal sides (20x20, 24x24, etc.) the hip roof would resemble a pyramid and has four common rafters, one on each wall. The longer the length of the building the more common rafters there will be and the longer the ridgeboard will be.
What makes a hip roof? The hip rafter. If a building is square or rectangular there will be four hip rafters. The birdsmouth of a hip rafter sits right on the corner of the building. Its length slopes up at a 45 degree angle to where two commons meet the ridgeboard and make a 90 degree angle. The size of a hip rafter is determined by the size of the common rafter. If the common rafter is a 2x8, rule of thumb and most building codes call for the hip to be the next size up, in this case a 2x10.
A valley rafter has the same characteristics as a hip rafter except instead of originating at an outside corner, its birdsmouth sits where two walls create an inside corner. This situation is created when roofs run perpendicular to one another. These roofs slope to the valley rafter which bisects these roofs at a 45 degree angle.
Where there are hip or valley rafters, there are jack rafters. Jack rafters complete the framing on a hip roof from the hip to the top plate, starting a the common rafter down to the top plate or tail of the hip rafter. The tails of the jack rafter are cut the same as a common rafter. The plumb cut is the same pitch as a common rafter but cut at a 45 degree angle (compound angle) to match up with the angle of the hip.
With valley rafters, jack rafters usually start at a ridge and terminate at the valley. The cut at the ridge is a normal plumb cut. The cut at the valley is a plumb cut but the long point is at the bottom of the rafter and cut at a 45 degree angle (compound angle) to match the valley angle.
Mike Merisko (C) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
Monday, January 15, 2007
Building By The Square Foot
How much material is it going to take to do the job? What is the labor cost for the project? These are questions a contractor asks himself when bidding a job. In most cases a contractor will use the square foot method to determine the answer to those questions.
This method of take off is particularly handy in figuring sheet good type materials such as wall sheathing, plywood decking, roof sheathing and drywall. To find the square footage for one of these areas, multiply the height or width times(x) the length. For example if you have an eight foot high wall by 40 feet long the square footage for the wall would be 320 square feet. Most sheet goods are 4 feet by 8 feet or 32 square feet. The square footage of the wall is divided by 32. It will take 10 sheets of plywood or insulated sheathing to cover this wall.
This same method can be used to figure the plywood or OSB for the house deck and roof. To figure the deck simply multiply the width of the deck by the length to get the square footage and divide by 32. Figuring the square footage of a roof is similar but with a twist. For the roof multiply the length of the rafters by the length of the roof. Take the result times 2 for the total square footage for both sides of a gable roof, then divide by 32 to get the amount of plywood to sheet the roof. The square footage of a hip roof is figured the same way.
Drywall is also figured by the square foot. This can be an involved process. It can be broken down into two parts. First the square footage for the ceilings can be figured. Like the deck this is figured length times width. Then the lineal feet of all the walls is taken times the height. Interior walls will be added in twice because they have drywall on both sides. Labor to hang, tape, and paint the drywall is also figured this way.
Besides drywall and painting, many other labor costs are figured by the square foot. Roofing and siding are figured by the square. A square is 100 square feet. For example if a roof is 1200 square feet, it will take 12 squares of shingles to cover it. The same unit of measurement goes for vinyl, wood, alumimnum, steel and cement sidings.
Carpentry makes use of this measurement also. The cost to frame a house is usually figured by the square foot. Costs to build a whole house are estimated this way to help people determine if a house or its house plans are affordable for them to build.
Flooring is also among one of those things that use the square foot method to figure labor and materials. This includes ceramic and quarry tiles, hardwood, laminate, and vinyl flooring, and carpeting. Most contractors and installers use a price per square foot for their labor when calculating their costs for installation.
This information will help you understand contractor estimates and help you do your own calculations for projects.
Mike Merisko(c) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
This method of take off is particularly handy in figuring sheet good type materials such as wall sheathing, plywood decking, roof sheathing and drywall. To find the square footage for one of these areas, multiply the height or width times(x) the length. For example if you have an eight foot high wall by 40 feet long the square footage for the wall would be 320 square feet. Most sheet goods are 4 feet by 8 feet or 32 square feet. The square footage of the wall is divided by 32. It will take 10 sheets of plywood or insulated sheathing to cover this wall.
This same method can be used to figure the plywood or OSB for the house deck and roof. To figure the deck simply multiply the width of the deck by the length to get the square footage and divide by 32. Figuring the square footage of a roof is similar but with a twist. For the roof multiply the length of the rafters by the length of the roof. Take the result times 2 for the total square footage for both sides of a gable roof, then divide by 32 to get the amount of plywood to sheet the roof. The square footage of a hip roof is figured the same way.
Drywall is also figured by the square foot. This can be an involved process. It can be broken down into two parts. First the square footage for the ceilings can be figured. Like the deck this is figured length times width. Then the lineal feet of all the walls is taken times the height. Interior walls will be added in twice because they have drywall on both sides. Labor to hang, tape, and paint the drywall is also figured this way.
Besides drywall and painting, many other labor costs are figured by the square foot. Roofing and siding are figured by the square. A square is 100 square feet. For example if a roof is 1200 square feet, it will take 12 squares of shingles to cover it. The same unit of measurement goes for vinyl, wood, alumimnum, steel and cement sidings.
Carpentry makes use of this measurement also. The cost to frame a house is usually figured by the square foot. Costs to build a whole house are estimated this way to help people determine if a house or its house plans are affordable for them to build.
Flooring is also among one of those things that use the square foot method to figure labor and materials. This includes ceramic and quarry tiles, hardwood, laminate, and vinyl flooring, and carpeting. Most contractors and installers use a price per square foot for their labor when calculating their costs for installation.
This information will help you understand contractor estimates and help you do your own calculations for projects.
Mike Merisko(c) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
Wednesday, January 03, 2007
Vinyl Siding: The Misunderstood Finish
For the last 20 years vinyl siding has been the exterior finish of choice, ahead of wood, aluminum, and steel. Besides being virtually maintenance free, it is also chosen for its colors, style choices and durability.
Many of the myths about vinyl siding stem from its early years when cracking, fading, and buckling were part of its characteristics. Technology quickly caught up with these faults and made it a more viable product for an exterior finish.
Another false read that people may have gotten about vinyl siding is seeing a poor installation on a new or re-sided house. Installers not knowledgable or not following the manufacturers recommended installation instructions could produce a poor job making one think its typical of all vinyl siding jobs.
One of the most common mistakes made when installing vinyl siding is not allowing room for expansion. During warm weather a 12 foot panel can expand up to 1/2 inch. Because of this, the siding is installed 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch short of J-channels and corners depending on the temperature its installed in.
Another no-no is nailing the sidng tight to the wall. Vinyl siding has a slotted nailing strip along its top edge. When nailing the siding on, one must drive the nails as close to the center of the slot as possible and leave the nail heads no closer than an 1/8 inch away from the strip. This will allow the siding panel to slide left to right and expand without buckling.
Another complaint is not being able to match and replace a damaged panel. If one installs or has installed a reputable brand name vinyl siding chances are it will be available should the need arise. After installation its a good idea to keep a small piece of the siding and to write the color and brand name on the back with permanent marker.
Whether installing or having vinyl siding installed, do your homework. Research some of the different makers of vinyl siding and their products they have available. If you are installing the siding yourself, follow the manufacturers installation instructions. If you hire a contractor to do the job, ask for addresses of jobs he's done so you can see his work.
Mike Merisko (c) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
Many of the myths about vinyl siding stem from its early years when cracking, fading, and buckling were part of its characteristics. Technology quickly caught up with these faults and made it a more viable product for an exterior finish.
Another false read that people may have gotten about vinyl siding is seeing a poor installation on a new or re-sided house. Installers not knowledgable or not following the manufacturers recommended installation instructions could produce a poor job making one think its typical of all vinyl siding jobs.
One of the most common mistakes made when installing vinyl siding is not allowing room for expansion. During warm weather a 12 foot panel can expand up to 1/2 inch. Because of this, the siding is installed 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch short of J-channels and corners depending on the temperature its installed in.
Another no-no is nailing the sidng tight to the wall. Vinyl siding has a slotted nailing strip along its top edge. When nailing the siding on, one must drive the nails as close to the center of the slot as possible and leave the nail heads no closer than an 1/8 inch away from the strip. This will allow the siding panel to slide left to right and expand without buckling.
Another complaint is not being able to match and replace a damaged panel. If one installs or has installed a reputable brand name vinyl siding chances are it will be available should the need arise. After installation its a good idea to keep a small piece of the siding and to write the color and brand name on the back with permanent marker.
Whether installing or having vinyl siding installed, do your homework. Research some of the different makers of vinyl siding and their products they have available. If you are installing the siding yourself, follow the manufacturers installation instructions. If you hire a contractor to do the job, ask for addresses of jobs he's done so you can see his work.
Mike Merisko (c) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com
Tuesday, December 12, 2006
Siding Decision
When I built my house 18 years ago I had to have the traditional wood
(cedar) siding. After a couple of years, the color began to fade.
After about 5 years in the weather (northern Illinois), some pieces
developed cracks and boards shrunk creating gaps at joints.
After an extensive paint and caulk job it looked like new again.
I'm facing the same situation again, only this time I'm tearing off
the wood siding and installing vinyl. I've nearly finished putting up
vinyl soffit and aluminum fascia on my house, this summer it will be
the siding.
As far as replacing siding, if you install a name brand (certainteed,
wolverine, alcoa, reynolds to name a few) it should be available if
the need arises.
Like they say "vinyl is final".
Mike Merisko
www.sawkerfs.com
(cedar) siding. After a couple of years, the color began to fade.
After about 5 years in the weather (northern Illinois), some pieces
developed cracks and boards shrunk creating gaps at joints.
After an extensive paint and caulk job it looked like new again.
I'm facing the same situation again, only this time I'm tearing off
the wood siding and installing vinyl. I've nearly finished putting up
vinyl soffit and aluminum fascia on my house, this summer it will be
the siding.
As far as replacing siding, if you install a name brand (certainteed,
wolverine, alcoa, reynolds to name a few) it should be available if
the need arises.
Like they say "vinyl is final".
Mike Merisko
www.sawkerfs.com
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
The Full Length Roof Framer: The Book
There are many ways to get the information and numbers you need to cut a roof. Carpenters and homebuilders depend on a variety of resources to get that information. Among those items available to a roof cutter are rafter tables, trig calculators, construction calculators, how to books and computer programs.
I've used most of those options, and although they did the job, they do have their drawbacks. Calculators can malfunction or be dropped or crushed on the jobsite. Rafter tables are just that, with no back up information for that tough to cut roof. Computers must be used offsite for a print out to be used. If numbers where entered in wrong or conditions on site changed you still need an alternative resource. You could use a laptop, but few users want to subject them to the rigors of a construction site, and as with calculators, ther is the malfunction issue.
My choice for roof cutting information and rafter lengths is A. F. J. Riechers "The Full Length Roof Framer". Its a hardcover book small enough to put in your hip pocket or in a pouch in your nail apron. The information you need is always at your finger tips.
"The Full Length Roof Framer" has rafter tables in half inch increments, giving roof pitches from 1/2 in 12 to 24 in 12. It gives rafter lengths for spans up to fifty feet for common, hip, and valley rafters. There are 144 rafter tables and 2,400 common rafter lengths and 2,400 hip rafter lengths per pitch to 1/8 of an inch.
This book not only gives you all the rafter lengths you'll ever need, but it also guides you step by step through the roof cutting process, whether it be a gable roof or a hip roof. If you have never cut a roof before or only dabbled in roof cutting,
anyone with a working knowledge of a circular saw and a framing square can cut a roof with this book.
Some of the topics covered in "The Full Length Roof Framer" are, Laying out, Cuts for commom, hip, valley, and jack rafters, backing cuts, overhangs, ridges and even cuts on roof sheathing and shingles. Each table has an explanation on how to use it so you don't have to keep thumbing through the book for information. Also on that page is the difference in length for jack rafters for any centers (16,24,36,etc.) that might be used.
This book was copywritten by A. F. J. Riechers in 1917 and all the information in it is as relavent today as it was then. By keeping this book on the jobsite with you, you'll never be without the information you need to cut a roof.
Mike Merisko (C) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
I've used most of those options, and although they did the job, they do have their drawbacks. Calculators can malfunction or be dropped or crushed on the jobsite. Rafter tables are just that, with no back up information for that tough to cut roof. Computers must be used offsite for a print out to be used. If numbers where entered in wrong or conditions on site changed you still need an alternative resource. You could use a laptop, but few users want to subject them to the rigors of a construction site, and as with calculators, ther is the malfunction issue.
My choice for roof cutting information and rafter lengths is A. F. J. Riechers "The Full Length Roof Framer". Its a hardcover book small enough to put in your hip pocket or in a pouch in your nail apron. The information you need is always at your finger tips.
"The Full Length Roof Framer" has rafter tables in half inch increments, giving roof pitches from 1/2 in 12 to 24 in 12. It gives rafter lengths for spans up to fifty feet for common, hip, and valley rafters. There are 144 rafter tables and 2,400 common rafter lengths and 2,400 hip rafter lengths per pitch to 1/8 of an inch.
This book not only gives you all the rafter lengths you'll ever need, but it also guides you step by step through the roof cutting process, whether it be a gable roof or a hip roof. If you have never cut a roof before or only dabbled in roof cutting,
anyone with a working knowledge of a circular saw and a framing square can cut a roof with this book.
Some of the topics covered in "The Full Length Roof Framer" are, Laying out, Cuts for commom, hip, valley, and jack rafters, backing cuts, overhangs, ridges and even cuts on roof sheathing and shingles. Each table has an explanation on how to use it so you don't have to keep thumbing through the book for information. Also on that page is the difference in length for jack rafters for any centers (16,24,36,etc.) that might be used.
This book was copywritten by A. F. J. Riechers in 1917 and all the information in it is as relavent today as it was then. By keeping this book on the jobsite with you, you'll never be without the information you need to cut a roof.
Mike Merisko (C) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
Sunday, September 17, 2006
Framing Window and Door Openings
Framing exterior walls is one of the easier tasks in homebuilding. There are still steps that should be followed to make this a smooth and trouble free operation. There is more to framing a wall than nailing some studs to a plate and standing it up.
Assumming you have laid out your plates, pull the top plate back so it is approximately eight feet from the bottom plate. This gives you room to layout your stud material to frame the wall with. If there are windows or doors in the wall, layout the headers, sills and cripples in their corresponding locations.
Window and door openings should be framed first. There is a good reason to frame these details first. When framing window and door openings, nails are driven through the sides of studs into headers, cripples, and sills. If the wall studs were to be nailed in before the openings were framed there would not be enough room to swing a hammer or use a nail gun. Even if those openings fell on 16 inch centers it would still be a little tight to swing a hammer.
The order of nailing a window opening together is also important. We'll use a standard eight foot wall as an example. In our example all the headers are 2x12. The first step is to nail the header to the top plate. The header is cut to the width of the window plus three inches to allow for the 2x4 cripples. Next, studs are nailed to both ends of the header and to the top plate using 16 penny nails. Once those are nailed in, the cripples are then nailed in. These determine the height of the window. The cripples butt up to the bottom of the header and nailed to the inside of the studs. The 16 penny nails must be put in at an angle to keep them from coming through the stud and to keep someone from catching their hand or clothing on the sharp points. The sill is then nailed to the bottoms of the cripples. The window framing is completed by adding cripple studs beneath the sill on the stud layout.
To frame a door opening the same procedure is followed except their is no sill. Studs are nailed to each end of the header and then a measurement is taken from the bottom of the header to the bottom plate. This will be the length of your cripples. These are nailed in just like the window cripples. Later on in the construction of the house and before the exterior doors are installed, the bottom plate is cut out.
Once all the openings are framed, all the wall studs can be nailed in. Make sure to follow the layout and nail everything on the right side of the line which will be indicated by an "X". Anything nailed to the wrong side of the line can be pretty obvious to the trained eye. You don't want to find this out when you are sheeting the wall.
Follow these basic rules to framing a wall and the job will go smoothly and hopefully aggravation free.
Mike Merisko (C) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
Assumming you have laid out your plates, pull the top plate back so it is approximately eight feet from the bottom plate. This gives you room to layout your stud material to frame the wall with. If there are windows or doors in the wall, layout the headers, sills and cripples in their corresponding locations.
Window and door openings should be framed first. There is a good reason to frame these details first. When framing window and door openings, nails are driven through the sides of studs into headers, cripples, and sills. If the wall studs were to be nailed in before the openings were framed there would not be enough room to swing a hammer or use a nail gun. Even if those openings fell on 16 inch centers it would still be a little tight to swing a hammer.
The order of nailing a window opening together is also important. We'll use a standard eight foot wall as an example. In our example all the headers are 2x12. The first step is to nail the header to the top plate. The header is cut to the width of the window plus three inches to allow for the 2x4 cripples. Next, studs are nailed to both ends of the header and to the top plate using 16 penny nails. Once those are nailed in, the cripples are then nailed in. These determine the height of the window. The cripples butt up to the bottom of the header and nailed to the inside of the studs. The 16 penny nails must be put in at an angle to keep them from coming through the stud and to keep someone from catching their hand or clothing on the sharp points. The sill is then nailed to the bottoms of the cripples. The window framing is completed by adding cripple studs beneath the sill on the stud layout.
To frame a door opening the same procedure is followed except their is no sill. Studs are nailed to each end of the header and then a measurement is taken from the bottom of the header to the bottom plate. This will be the length of your cripples. These are nailed in just like the window cripples. Later on in the construction of the house and before the exterior doors are installed, the bottom plate is cut out.
Once all the openings are framed, all the wall studs can be nailed in. Make sure to follow the layout and nail everything on the right side of the line which will be indicated by an "X". Anything nailed to the wrong side of the line can be pretty obvious to the trained eye. You don't want to find this out when you are sheeting the wall.
Follow these basic rules to framing a wall and the job will go smoothly and hopefully aggravation free.
Mike Merisko (C) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
Saturday, September 02, 2006
Homebuilding: Raising Walls
You've just taken some plywood, 2x4 studs, 2x12 header material and some house wrap and transformed them into a wall. Its time to take the fruits of your labor and raise that wall off the deck. Having the right steps in place and making the right moves will make this task go smoothly and safely.
There are a couple of procedures that are done during the framing of the wall that play an important part in raising it. Before an exterior wall is framed, a chalk line is snapped on the deck. If it is a 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, this line will be 4 inches off the edge of the deck. After the wall is framed and before any wall sheathing is nailed to it, the edge of the bottom plate is brought to the line. The end of the wall is brought to the edge of the deck. Once the frame is put in place, it is toe nailed with 8d nails on the inside of the bottom plate. Not only do these hold the wall in place when squaring up the wall, but also keep the wall on the line when raising it.
Once the wall is sheathed with plywood, insulation board, foam board and covered with house wrap you are ready to raise it. In preperation to lift the wall one must be able to get their hands under the top plate. Using a straight claw hammer or a prybar under the top plate, lift the wall high enough to slip a 2x4 flat under it. This inch and a half space gives you enough room for your hands.
If your raising a second story wall it is a good idea to nail stopping blocks to the rim joists. One of the last things you want is the wall being pushed off the edge of the deck. These are scrap pieces of lumber nailed the rim joist with 16d nails. Ideally these should be 16 to 18 inches long and nailed the full width of the joist with 4 16d nails. The balance of the board will stick up above the deck. Put these blocks at each end of the wall. On longer walls you may want to add one to the middle.
Before raising the wall, have all of your bracing material on hand. On a windy day you will want to brace the wall in place as soon as possible. Have enough braces (2x4's) to have them nailed on about every 10 feet. You will need blocks to nail to the deck to anchor the braces. These need to be about 20" long and get nailed to the deck through the plywood and into the floor joists with 16d nails. The nails need to go into the joists or ther is the risk of the bracing failing in the case of high winds.
Bracing on the ends of the walls can be nailed on before it is raised. Nail one end of a 2x4 (wall stud) about one third of the way down from the top plate, again using 16d nails. Start a nail at the other end of the 2x4 so when the wall is stood up, all one has to do is drive the nail into the rim joist to brace the end of the wall.
With all materials and safeguards in place you can now raise the wall. A good rule of thumb for raising a wall is a set of hands every 8 to 10 feet. This gives everyone a comfortable weight to lift. To save your back, use your legs in the lifting process as much as possible.
Once the wall is raised, nail off the end braces to the rim joists. Next, nail the braces to a stud or window opening about a third of the way down from the top plate, about every 8 to 10 feet apart. Next, nail the blocks to the deck alongside the braces that were just nailed the the wall, being sure to catch the floor joists with the nails. With the wall as close to plumb as possible, nail off the anchor end of the brace to the block on the deck. It is important to use 16d nails for all of these steps.
After the wall is raised and braced, the final step is to nail the bottom plate of the wall to the deck. Push or pull the wall to the chalk line that was snapped on the deck. The 8d toe nails and the stopping blocks should have kept the wall very close to this line. Once the plate is brought to the line, nail it off with 16d nails, being sure to hit either the rim joist or a floor joist. You can now walk away and start another wall.
Remember, homebuilding can be a dangerous and risky occupation or activity. Always execise caution and saftey in all aspects of the construction process.
Mike Merisko (C) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
There are a couple of procedures that are done during the framing of the wall that play an important part in raising it. Before an exterior wall is framed, a chalk line is snapped on the deck. If it is a 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, this line will be 4 inches off the edge of the deck. After the wall is framed and before any wall sheathing is nailed to it, the edge of the bottom plate is brought to the line. The end of the wall is brought to the edge of the deck. Once the frame is put in place, it is toe nailed with 8d nails on the inside of the bottom plate. Not only do these hold the wall in place when squaring up the wall, but also keep the wall on the line when raising it.
Once the wall is sheathed with plywood, insulation board, foam board and covered with house wrap you are ready to raise it. In preperation to lift the wall one must be able to get their hands under the top plate. Using a straight claw hammer or a prybar under the top plate, lift the wall high enough to slip a 2x4 flat under it. This inch and a half space gives you enough room for your hands.
If your raising a second story wall it is a good idea to nail stopping blocks to the rim joists. One of the last things you want is the wall being pushed off the edge of the deck. These are scrap pieces of lumber nailed the rim joist with 16d nails. Ideally these should be 16 to 18 inches long and nailed the full width of the joist with 4 16d nails. The balance of the board will stick up above the deck. Put these blocks at each end of the wall. On longer walls you may want to add one to the middle.
Before raising the wall, have all of your bracing material on hand. On a windy day you will want to brace the wall in place as soon as possible. Have enough braces (2x4's) to have them nailed on about every 10 feet. You will need blocks to nail to the deck to anchor the braces. These need to be about 20" long and get nailed to the deck through the plywood and into the floor joists with 16d nails. The nails need to go into the joists or ther is the risk of the bracing failing in the case of high winds.
Bracing on the ends of the walls can be nailed on before it is raised. Nail one end of a 2x4 (wall stud) about one third of the way down from the top plate, again using 16d nails. Start a nail at the other end of the 2x4 so when the wall is stood up, all one has to do is drive the nail into the rim joist to brace the end of the wall.
With all materials and safeguards in place you can now raise the wall. A good rule of thumb for raising a wall is a set of hands every 8 to 10 feet. This gives everyone a comfortable weight to lift. To save your back, use your legs in the lifting process as much as possible.
Once the wall is raised, nail off the end braces to the rim joists. Next, nail the braces to a stud or window opening about a third of the way down from the top plate, about every 8 to 10 feet apart. Next, nail the blocks to the deck alongside the braces that were just nailed the the wall, being sure to catch the floor joists with the nails. With the wall as close to plumb as possible, nail off the anchor end of the brace to the block on the deck. It is important to use 16d nails for all of these steps.
After the wall is raised and braced, the final step is to nail the bottom plate of the wall to the deck. Push or pull the wall to the chalk line that was snapped on the deck. The 8d toe nails and the stopping blocks should have kept the wall very close to this line. Once the plate is brought to the line, nail it off with 16d nails, being sure to hit either the rim joist or a floor joist. You can now walk away and start another wall.
Remember, homebuilding can be a dangerous and risky occupation or activity. Always execise caution and saftey in all aspects of the construction process.
Mike Merisko (C) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
Saturday, August 26, 2006
Homebuilding and Framing Layout
When framing a house it helps to plan ahead for the layout of the framing members. When laying out, how you start will effect every phase of the project and dictate how you finish.
When starting construction on a new home the first layout would be for the floor joists. Before I even put a pencil to the sill plates to mark centers for the joists, I look at the roof plan. I let the type of roof the house has dictate what my layout is going to be.
The simplest layout would be for a home with a gable roof. If this is the case, then the layout of sixteen inch centers for the floor joists would simply start from the corner of the building. On the gable ends of the house, the layout would be started from the center of the building. The reason for this will be explained later.
When the roof is a hip roof, the layout for my first floor joist will be where the first common rafter winds up on the top plate. If the first common rafter is 11'9" to its center then that is where my layout for my joists will start. As with a gable roof, the layout on the end of the building will start from the middle. There is only one common rafter on the end of the house
and it will be in the center of the wall.
Now that you have laid out your floor joists, this will be the layout for all other framing components. After the plywood has been put on the floor joists, the layout for the exterior walls will follow the floor joist layout. Any interior bearing walls will also follow this layout.
After the walls have been framed and raised, the next phase of construction would be ceiling joists (if its a ranch style home) or second floor joists (if its a two story home). The layout for these would fall right on top of the studs in the walls. In the case of the ceiling joists, these would be nailed on the top plate to the side of the studs and the rafters would be nailed to the plate over the studs.
This method of framing is called "stacking". All framing members are stacked on top of each other to transfer the loads to the foundation and footings.
When framing the gable end of a roof, it is also laid out from the center. This puts a stud right under the ridge to give it support. All the walls below it are laid out from center also, so this support reaches all the way to the foundation wall.
Another reason for stacking the framing members is to create a chase or bay for mechanicals to go through. This makes it easier for the plumbers, electricians, and heating and AC trades to do their job. By using this method in a two story home, it creates a 14 1/2" space between framing members from the roof to the basement.
Stacking framing members in this method not only transfers the weight of the building to the foundation, but also makes for a structurely sound building. It also keeps the other trades cutting up of framing members to a minimum.
Plan ahead and keep it simple.
Mike Merisko (C) 2006
www.sawkerfs .com
When starting construction on a new home the first layout would be for the floor joists. Before I even put a pencil to the sill plates to mark centers for the joists, I look at the roof plan. I let the type of roof the house has dictate what my layout is going to be.
The simplest layout would be for a home with a gable roof. If this is the case, then the layout of sixteen inch centers for the floor joists would simply start from the corner of the building. On the gable ends of the house, the layout would be started from the center of the building. The reason for this will be explained later.
When the roof is a hip roof, the layout for my first floor joist will be where the first common rafter winds up on the top plate. If the first common rafter is 11'9" to its center then that is where my layout for my joists will start. As with a gable roof, the layout on the end of the building will start from the middle. There is only one common rafter on the end of the house
and it will be in the center of the wall.
Now that you have laid out your floor joists, this will be the layout for all other framing components. After the plywood has been put on the floor joists, the layout for the exterior walls will follow the floor joist layout. Any interior bearing walls will also follow this layout.
After the walls have been framed and raised, the next phase of construction would be ceiling joists (if its a ranch style home) or second floor joists (if its a two story home). The layout for these would fall right on top of the studs in the walls. In the case of the ceiling joists, these would be nailed on the top plate to the side of the studs and the rafters would be nailed to the plate over the studs.
This method of framing is called "stacking". All framing members are stacked on top of each other to transfer the loads to the foundation and footings.
When framing the gable end of a roof, it is also laid out from the center. This puts a stud right under the ridge to give it support. All the walls below it are laid out from center also, so this support reaches all the way to the foundation wall.
Another reason for stacking the framing members is to create a chase or bay for mechanicals to go through. This makes it easier for the plumbers, electricians, and heating and AC trades to do their job. By using this method in a two story home, it creates a 14 1/2" space between framing members from the roof to the basement.
Stacking framing members in this method not only transfers the weight of the building to the foundation, but also makes for a structurely sound building. It also keeps the other trades cutting up of framing members to a minimum.
Plan ahead and keep it simple.
Mike Merisko (C) 2006
www.sawkerfs .com
Friday, August 25, 2006
Garage Door Rough Openings
One of the most confusing aspects of homebuilding can be the
rough opening for an overhead garage door. It is one of the
most frequent questions I am asked.
The rough opening for a garage door, simply put, is the
actual size of the door itself. For example, if the garage
door is a 7'0" x 16'0", then that is the size the rough
opening should be framed to. This is also what the opening
in the foundation should be. The studs and cripples will
then stop right at the edge of the foundation.
The foundation usually drops 8" to allow the concrete floor
to be poured over the top of it. This has to be accounted
for when figuring the length of the cripples to get the
right heighth of the overhead door header. Normally the
floor is poured 3" below the top of the foundation wall. If
the overhead door is 7' then 4 and 1/2" is subtracted from
that heighth. This is the 3" drop and 1 1/2" for the bottom
plate. Your total cripple lenght would be 6' 7 1/2".
Once the floor is poured, the door jambs can be installed.
The width of these jamb pieces vary with the size of the
wall and what the wall is finished with (brick, siding,
dryvit, etc). The header piece is installed first, then the
two side pieces. These go from the header to the finished
concrete floor. Once the jambs are in the door can be
installed. With the door installed the door stops are then
put on either with or without weatherstripping.
If you know the door size of your overhead door, you know
the rough opening. From there its determining where to start
and stop your framing.
Rough Openings For Doors
One of the most important parts of framing walls is getting
the rough openings right. Items that determine what the
heighth of your opening will be are floor finishes and the
use of underlayment. Door widths will stay constant with the
size of a standard door.
In new construction most doors are hung after the floors are
installed. This allows flooring contractors (tile, hardwood,
vinyl, laminate) to lay their flooring products without
making tricky cuts around door jambs. It also makes for a
neat and clean door installation. Exceptions to this are
carpeted floors. Doors are hung before the carpeting is
laid. When doors are hung in carpeted areas, its a good idea
to shim them up 1/2", putting a shim under each jamb leg.
This eliminates the need to cut the doors down after the
carpet is installed.
For a 6' 8" high door (80 inches) I like to frame my rough
opening heighth at 82 3/4". This allows room for all the
situations mentioned above. If your header material is a
double 2x12, holding it to the top plate will give you that
heighth.
Rough openings for door widths are pretty much standard. The
rough opening width is 2 inches wider than the door itself.
this allows room for the door jambs which are usually 3/4"
thick. This gives you approximately 1/2" of play and shim
room when installing a prehung door. For a 36" door (3' 0")
the rough openig width would be 38". Here are the most
common door sizes and their rough openings.
Door Size Rough Opening Size
2' 0" x 6'8" -26" x 82 3/4"
2' 2" x 6'8" -28" x 82 3/4"
2' 4" x 6'8" -30" x 82 3/4"
2' 6" x 6'8" -32" x 82 3/4"
2' 8" x 6'8" -34" x 82 3/4"
2' 10"x 6'8" -36" x 82 3/4"
3' 0" x 6'8" -38" x 82 3/4"
To figure the rough opening for double doors or french
doors, take the door size times 2 and add 2". The most
common sizes for exterior doors are the 2'8" and the 3'0"
doors. The 2'8" is usually used for the back door and the
access door from the garage. That size door for exterior use
is being used less these days because of the size of
appliances and furniture. Exterior doors with sidelights and
sliding patio doors rough openings vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. These should be verified and gotten from the
supplier.
Getting the rough openings right the first time keeps the
sawzall in its carrying case and having to change the
opening after the walls are drywalled and painted.
To learn more about installing doors, check the archives of
this blog or go to www.sawkerfs.com
Mike Merisko (c) 2006
www.sawkerfs.comChoosing the Right House Plan
Everybody would like to live in a mansion or a sprawling ranch but there are many factors to consider when choosing a house plan. There are also a few pitfalls that can be avoided by doing your homework and making the right choices.
Before you commit to buying a stock or custom house plan, you should know how much of a house you can afford to build. A good place to get this information would be the bank that you might use to get your loan from.
Once you know what your budget is, you can determine how much house you can afford and pick a house plan that fits that budget. One way to accomplish this is to call several homebuilding contractors in your area. Ask them what the building costs per square foot are. Not all contractors are willing to volunteer this information, but you will find enough of them that are willing to help at the prospect of gaining a customer.
With this information you will be able to determine the square footage of a house plan you can afford. If your budget is $200,000 and the cost per square foot is $100, then a 2,000 square foot home is in your budget($200,000/$100= 2,000).
Another consideration is the size of the lot you intend on building your home. You don't want to invest in a blueprint for a house that won't fit on your lot. Check with your municipality or county on the distances you must have between the building and the lot lines. Most have rules on how much backyard you must have and how much your house must be set back from the street or building line.
Some towns and subdivisions also have what are called covenants. These are rules that dictate what you can and cannot build. Some of these covenants might include the minimum square footage house you can build, brick or frame construction, minimum roof pitch, and types of building materials you are allowed to use.
These are some of the important things you must consider. Building a new home the biggest investment you'll ever make. Doing a little homework will keep you from getting an unwanted surprise and wasting time and money on a plan you can't use.
(c) 2005 Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com
Before you commit to buying a stock or custom house plan, you should know how much of a house you can afford to build. A good place to get this information would be the bank that you might use to get your loan from.
Once you know what your budget is, you can determine how much house you can afford and pick a house plan that fits that budget. One way to accomplish this is to call several homebuilding contractors in your area. Ask them what the building costs per square foot are. Not all contractors are willing to volunteer this information, but you will find enough of them that are willing to help at the prospect of gaining a customer.
With this information you will be able to determine the square footage of a house plan you can afford. If your budget is $200,000 and the cost per square foot is $100, then a 2,000 square foot home is in your budget($200,000/$100= 2,000).
Another consideration is the size of the lot you intend on building your home. You don't want to invest in a blueprint for a house that won't fit on your lot. Check with your municipality or county on the distances you must have between the building and the lot lines. Most have rules on how much backyard you must have and how much your house must be set back from the street or building line.
Some towns and subdivisions also have what are called covenants. These are rules that dictate what you can and cannot build. Some of these covenants might include the minimum square footage house you can build, brick or frame construction, minimum roof pitch, and types of building materials you are allowed to use.
These are some of the important things you must consider. Building a new home the biggest investment you'll ever make. Doing a little homework will keep you from getting an unwanted surprise and wasting time and money on a plan you can't use.
(c) 2005 Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com
Choosing Finish Materials When Building Your Own Home
When building your own home, certain building materials must be chosen and ordered well in
advance of when they will be used. This is mainly due to how long the delivery time
is once the order is made. By ordering these materials at the proper time you ensure
that they will be on the job when they are needed.
Some of the materials that need to be ordered with plenty of lead time include windows,
plumbing fixtures, roofing, siding, electrical fixtures, brick, flooring, interior trim and
appliances.
Windows and certain plumbing fixtures should be ordered about the time the foundation is
poured. Windows can take 3 to 6 weeks to get so order them accordingly. Ideally you'd like
these ready for delivery once the roof is framed and covered with sheathing so they can be
installed while the carpenter contractor is still there.
Plumbing fixtures such as bathtubs and shower stalls get put in place on the rough. Two to
three weeks should be plenty of time to make this available for your plumber.
Roofing should also be ordered even if it is a stock item. Make sure the color and style you
want is available so there are no surprises. If it needs to be ordered it gives your supplier
time to order it for you. Once the plywood is on the roof you'll want to shingle it as soon
as possible. This item should also be considered about the time the foundation is poured.
Siding and Brick should be considered once the rough framing is completed. This gives
the other trades a chance to run electric, plumbing, or vents out exterior walls. Once that
is done these exterior finishes should be at your disposal.
Electrical fixtures should be ordered once the rough is finished. If ordering these from an
electrical supply house, specialty fixtures could take as much as six weeks.
Flooring is another item that should be considered once the rough carpentry is finished.
You'll want to make sure items such as carpeting, ceramic or quarry tile, laminate, hardwood,
or vinyl flooring is available when you need them.
Interior trim amd millwork should be measured up for and ordered after the drywall is up.
While the taping and painting is being done, your order can be run. Once the painting is done
your order should be ready for delivery. Give this two to three weeks lead time.
Once the painting is done, ordering appliances is in order. I know a guy who ordered his
refrigerator for when the drywall was done so his favorite beverage was on hand as he worked
on his new home.
Having all the necessary materials on hand is important to keep your homebuilding project
moving smoothly. If your trying to meet a deadline this becomes even more important. If your
paying on a construction loan, ordering materials with plenty of lead time can save you money.
(c) 2006 Mike Merisko
www.sawkerfs.com
advance of when they will be used. This is mainly due to how long the delivery time
is once the order is made. By ordering these materials at the proper time you ensure
that they will be on the job when they are needed.
Some of the materials that need to be ordered with plenty of lead time include windows,
plumbing fixtures, roofing, siding, electrical fixtures, brick, flooring, interior trim and
appliances.
Windows and certain plumbing fixtures should be ordered about the time the foundation is
poured. Windows can take 3 to 6 weeks to get so order them accordingly. Ideally you'd like
these ready for delivery once the roof is framed and covered with sheathing so they can be
installed while the carpenter contractor is still there.
Plumbing fixtures such as bathtubs and shower stalls get put in place on the rough. Two to
three weeks should be plenty of time to make this available for your plumber.
Roofing should also be ordered even if it is a stock item. Make sure the color and style you
want is available so there are no surprises. If it needs to be ordered it gives your supplier
time to order it for you. Once the plywood is on the roof you'll want to shingle it as soon
as possible. This item should also be considered about the time the foundation is poured.
Siding and Brick should be considered once the rough framing is completed. This gives
the other trades a chance to run electric, plumbing, or vents out exterior walls. Once that
is done these exterior finishes should be at your disposal.
Electrical fixtures should be ordered once the rough is finished. If ordering these from an
electrical supply house, specialty fixtures could take as much as six weeks.
Flooring is another item that should be considered once the rough carpentry is finished.
You'll want to make sure items such as carpeting, ceramic or quarry tile, laminate, hardwood,
or vinyl flooring is available when you need them.
Interior trim amd millwork should be measured up for and ordered after the drywall is up.
While the taping and painting is being done, your order can be run. Once the painting is done
your order should be ready for delivery. Give this two to three weeks lead time.
Once the painting is done, ordering appliances is in order. I know a guy who ordered his
refrigerator for when the drywall was done so his favorite beverage was on hand as he worked
on his new home.
Having all the necessary materials on hand is important to keep your homebuilding project
moving smoothly. If your trying to meet a deadline this becomes even more important. If your
paying on a construction loan, ordering materials with plenty of lead time can save you money.
(c) 2006 Mike Merisko
www.sawkerfs.com
Doing a Siding Takeoff
For me one of the easiest material takeoffs to do from a
houseplan is for siding. It doesn't matter whether it's
T-11,vinyl,cedar or cement board siding. Just like roofing,
these materials can be figured by the square foot.
I use the elevation plan of the house when doing the
takeoff. These are usually drawn to 1/8" or 1/4" scale. To
find the square footage for the side of a house, I multiply
the width by the height. For example if the side of a house
with a hip roof is 25' wide and 8' high the square footage
is 200 square feet (sq. ft.).
If the side of the house has a gable figure it by itself. To
figure the square footage for a gable end, muliply the width
times the height and divide by two. Using our example above
for a 25' wide house, lets say that from the top of the wall
to the top of the ridge is 8'. Using our formula for
figuring gables, the square footage would be 100 sq. ft.
(25x8 divided by 2=100). Add this to the 200 sq. ft. we
figured for our wall and the total is 300 sq. ft. Do this
for all four sides of the house to give you the total amount
of square feet.
When ordering siding it is usually ordered by the square.
One square is equal to 100 square feet. The side of the
house in our example had 300 sq. ft. or 3 squares.
The exception to this would be if sheet goods were being
used. In this case divide the square footage by the square
footage of the sheet. This would be 32 sq. ft. for a 4x8
sheet. In our example of 300 sq. ft. it would take 10 sheets
to cover our wall.
When doing a take off for this task one should figure for
waste. There are a couple of ways to do this. One way is to
subtract the square footage of all the windows and doors and
add 10% for waste. The alternative to this method is to not
subtract the doors and windows and let that account for the
waste. Unless there is an unusual amount of windows and
doors this method work fine and is the one I prefer to use.
As your doing your takeoff dfrom the house plan, write
everything down. Write down front elevation and below it
write your figures for the square footage for that
elevation. Then do the right elevation and do the same. Make
your way around the house till you have all the sides of the
house figured. Add all the sides together and you'll have
the total square footage.
Mike Merisko (c) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
houseplan is for siding. It doesn't matter whether it's
T-11,vinyl,cedar or cement board siding. Just like roofing,
these materials can be figured by the square foot.
I use the elevation plan of the house when doing the
takeoff. These are usually drawn to 1/8" or 1/4" scale. To
find the square footage for the side of a house, I multiply
the width by the height. For example if the side of a house
with a hip roof is 25' wide and 8' high the square footage
is 200 square feet (sq. ft.).
If the side of the house has a gable figure it by itself. To
figure the square footage for a gable end, muliply the width
times the height and divide by two. Using our example above
for a 25' wide house, lets say that from the top of the wall
to the top of the ridge is 8'. Using our formula for
figuring gables, the square footage would be 100 sq. ft.
(25x8 divided by 2=100). Add this to the 200 sq. ft. we
figured for our wall and the total is 300 sq. ft. Do this
for all four sides of the house to give you the total amount
of square feet.
When ordering siding it is usually ordered by the square.
One square is equal to 100 square feet. The side of the
house in our example had 300 sq. ft. or 3 squares.
The exception to this would be if sheet goods were being
used. In this case divide the square footage by the square
footage of the sheet. This would be 32 sq. ft. for a 4x8
sheet. In our example of 300 sq. ft. it would take 10 sheets
to cover our wall.
When doing a take off for this task one should figure for
waste. There are a couple of ways to do this. One way is to
subtract the square footage of all the windows and doors and
add 10% for waste. The alternative to this method is to not
subtract the doors and windows and let that account for the
waste. Unless there is an unusual amount of windows and
doors this method work fine and is the one I prefer to use.
As your doing your takeoff dfrom the house plan, write
everything down. Write down front elevation and below it
write your figures for the square footage for that
elevation. Then do the right elevation and do the same. Make
your way around the house till you have all the sides of the
house figured. Add all the sides together and you'll have
the total square footage.
Mike Merisko (c) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
Thursday, August 24, 2006
Planning a Second Story Addition
Planning is the key when taking on a project that involves removing your roof.
Before you plan your 2nd story, research what obstacles will need to be dealt with. Examples of items that need to be addressed are:
-Size of ceiling joists, can they support a 2nd story floor?
-Are mechanicals run over the top of existing ceiling joists?
(plumbing, electRic, HVAC)
-How much overhang is on existing roof and are there any
utilities fastened to it.
-Is the existing roof stick built(built on site) or a truss
roof(manufactured).
-Is the roof sheathing 1x boards or plywood?
-How many layers of shingles are there?
-Are there any Stacks or flues protruding through the roof
such as a fireplace chimney, furnace flue, or vent pipe.
These things need to be considered so the addition can be built as quickly as possible.
When starting the tearoff, the first thing that needs to be addressedis the soffit. Removing this first will free up the rafter ends when it comes time to remove them. Sometimes utilities like the phone and electrical lines are attached to the soffit. These should be moved by their respective utility company.
Now you can tearoff the roof. The easiest way to remove the shingles and sheathing is with a circular saw. It's best to use an old blade with a lesser amount off teeth because it will be trash when you are done.
When cutting the roof away, start at the ridgeboard and run the saw between the rafters all the way to the rafter tails. Repeat this cut every 32" from one end of the roof to the other. These pieces, assuming they are plywood, can be removed in 32"x 48" squares. There will still be some weight to these pieces but this will make them more managable. Working from the ridge, these squares are loosened with a sledgehammer. Once there is enough room, you can use a prybar to free them from the rafters. My favorite technique is to use a 6 to 8 foot 2x4. Slip it under the loosened piece and use an adjacent
rafter as a fulcrum. Push down on the 2x4 and up comes the plywood and shingles. This same procedure works with trusses also.
If the roof sheathing is planks, the cuts should be made 48" to 64"apart. If there are 2 or mre layers of shingles, you should be able to roll these sections down the rafters.
Once the roof sheathing is removed, the rest of the components canbe removed. If the soffit and fascia haven't been removed yet, thisis another opportunity to do so. Once that is gone the rafters can be removed. The rafters can be detached from the ridgeboard by using a sledgehammer or a sawzall. After they are loose from the ridge, they can be twisted off the top plate.
Trusses can be a little trickier. After the sheathing is removed,most of the truss work will have to be cut out. The only part left would be the bottom cord that holds up the drywall ceiling. Since most of these cords are 2x4's, larger 2x lumber will have to be sistered alongside for added support. As long as there are bearing walls below, this 2x lumber could be 2x10's, 2x12's or engineered lumber such as I-joists. Each situation is different and what is used is spect by an engineer or architect.
In most cases, the electric (conduit), plumbing and/or HVAC run over the top of the ceiling joists. Usually, the easiest way to deal with this, is to build a knee wall high enough for the new floor joists to clear these obstructions. This makes the second floor deck higher so it will make your stair run longer. Making sure you have room for the stairs in this instance is another consideration.
Once the deck is down, the walls, ceiling joists, and roof of your new addition can follow.
Whatever situation might you have, good planning will make this taskeasier and quicker. Time is of the essence when it comes to removing a roof. You want to protect the existing structure and all of your valuable possesions that are left inside.
(c) 2005 Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com
Before you plan your 2nd story, research what obstacles will need to be dealt with. Examples of items that need to be addressed are:
-Size of ceiling joists, can they support a 2nd story floor?
-Are mechanicals run over the top of existing ceiling joists?
(plumbing, electRic, HVAC)
-How much overhang is on existing roof and are there any
utilities fastened to it.
-Is the existing roof stick built(built on site) or a truss
roof(manufactured).
-Is the roof sheathing 1x boards or plywood?
-How many layers of shingles are there?
-Are there any Stacks or flues protruding through the roof
such as a fireplace chimney, furnace flue, or vent pipe.
These things need to be considered so the addition can be built as quickly as possible.
When starting the tearoff, the first thing that needs to be addressedis the soffit. Removing this first will free up the rafter ends when it comes time to remove them. Sometimes utilities like the phone and electrical lines are attached to the soffit. These should be moved by their respective utility company.
Now you can tearoff the roof. The easiest way to remove the shingles and sheathing is with a circular saw. It's best to use an old blade with a lesser amount off teeth because it will be trash when you are done.
When cutting the roof away, start at the ridgeboard and run the saw between the rafters all the way to the rafter tails. Repeat this cut every 32" from one end of the roof to the other. These pieces, assuming they are plywood, can be removed in 32"x 48" squares. There will still be some weight to these pieces but this will make them more managable. Working from the ridge, these squares are loosened with a sledgehammer. Once there is enough room, you can use a prybar to free them from the rafters. My favorite technique is to use a 6 to 8 foot 2x4. Slip it under the loosened piece and use an adjacent
rafter as a fulcrum. Push down on the 2x4 and up comes the plywood and shingles. This same procedure works with trusses also.
If the roof sheathing is planks, the cuts should be made 48" to 64"apart. If there are 2 or mre layers of shingles, you should be able to roll these sections down the rafters.
Once the roof sheathing is removed, the rest of the components canbe removed. If the soffit and fascia haven't been removed yet, thisis another opportunity to do so. Once that is gone the rafters can be removed. The rafters can be detached from the ridgeboard by using a sledgehammer or a sawzall. After they are loose from the ridge, they can be twisted off the top plate.
Trusses can be a little trickier. After the sheathing is removed,most of the truss work will have to be cut out. The only part left would be the bottom cord that holds up the drywall ceiling. Since most of these cords are 2x4's, larger 2x lumber will have to be sistered alongside for added support. As long as there are bearing walls below, this 2x lumber could be 2x10's, 2x12's or engineered lumber such as I-joists. Each situation is different and what is used is spect by an engineer or architect.
In most cases, the electric (conduit), plumbing and/or HVAC run over the top of the ceiling joists. Usually, the easiest way to deal with this, is to build a knee wall high enough for the new floor joists to clear these obstructions. This makes the second floor deck higher so it will make your stair run longer. Making sure you have room for the stairs in this instance is another consideration.
Once the deck is down, the walls, ceiling joists, and roof of your new addition can follow.
Whatever situation might you have, good planning will make this taskeasier and quicker. Time is of the essence when it comes to removing a roof. You want to protect the existing structure and all of your valuable possesions that are left inside.
(c) 2005 Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com
Figuring Lumber Amounts for Homebuilding
Getting the right amount of lumber for your homebuilding project can be very important. Ordering to much lumber can add unnecessary costs to your project. Not ordering enough lumber or missing a component can bring your project to a screeching halt.
When I do a lumber takeoff, I do it in the order that it would be built. I start with the sill plates followed by the floor joists, tongue and groove plywood, and wall lumber (studs, plates, sheathing). If its a two story home, the next item would be the second floor floor joists followed by the second story walls (interior and exterior), then the ceiling joists, rafters and roof sheathing. If the house is a ranch, you would go from walls to ceiling joist, rafters and roof sheathing. That's the bulk of your lumber list but there are other incidentals that need to be added to your list. These items include:
Stair material (if carpenter built)
Soffit and fascia (plywood and 1x, 2x etc.)
Construction adhesive
Housewrap (Tyvek, Typar)
Nails (8d, 16d coated sinkers, cap nails)
Bridging (for floor joists)
Header material (2x12's, 2x10's, whatever is spec'd)
There are three methods that I use to figure a lumber list when building a new home. The first one that I use is for figuring my wall studs. I figure the total lineal feet of wall for the exterior walls. If its 150' then I order 150 studs. I do the same for the interior walls and for the second floor walls if there is one. This takes care of cripples for doors and windows and extra studs it takes to frame inside and outside corners. I always add 10% for wall bracing. Also, by getting the lineal feet of wall you have just figured what is needed for top and bottom plates. Take that lineal footage total times 3 and you have the total feet of plate you need for your walls.
To figure the amount of floor joists needed, I use a different method. If the length of a building is 32', I take that length times 4 and divide it by 3 and add 1. The total amount of joists needed in this example is 25 pieces. I use this same method to figure ceiling joists and rafters.
Sheet goods like plywood and foam sheathing are figured by using the square footage formula
length x width /32 = number of pieces of plywood.
There may be other ways to figure these things, but these simple methods always worked for me.
Mike Merisko (c) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
When I do a lumber takeoff, I do it in the order that it would be built. I start with the sill plates followed by the floor joists, tongue and groove plywood, and wall lumber (studs, plates, sheathing). If its a two story home, the next item would be the second floor floor joists followed by the second story walls (interior and exterior), then the ceiling joists, rafters and roof sheathing. If the house is a ranch, you would go from walls to ceiling joist, rafters and roof sheathing. That's the bulk of your lumber list but there are other incidentals that need to be added to your list. These items include:
Stair material (if carpenter built)
Soffit and fascia (plywood and 1x, 2x etc.)
Construction adhesive
Housewrap (Tyvek, Typar)
Nails (8d, 16d coated sinkers, cap nails)
Bridging (for floor joists)
Header material (2x12's, 2x10's, whatever is spec'd)
There are three methods that I use to figure a lumber list when building a new home. The first one that I use is for figuring my wall studs. I figure the total lineal feet of wall for the exterior walls. If its 150' then I order 150 studs. I do the same for the interior walls and for the second floor walls if there is one. This takes care of cripples for doors and windows and extra studs it takes to frame inside and outside corners. I always add 10% for wall bracing. Also, by getting the lineal feet of wall you have just figured what is needed for top and bottom plates. Take that lineal footage total times 3 and you have the total feet of plate you need for your walls.
To figure the amount of floor joists needed, I use a different method. If the length of a building is 32', I take that length times 4 and divide it by 3 and add 1. The total amount of joists needed in this example is 25 pieces. I use this same method to figure ceiling joists and rafters.
Sheet goods like plywood and foam sheathing are figured by using the square footage formula
length x width /32 = number of pieces of plywood.
There may be other ways to figure these things, but these simple methods always worked for me.
Mike Merisko (c) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
Two Story Homes: More Bang For Your Buck
If you are going to build your own home and want to get more for
your money, consider a two story home. There are major parts of
the construction process that can save you money over building a
ranch style home. The three major areas to cut costs are
excavation, the foundation, and the roof.
When excavating for a ranch style home, you are digging a hole
for living space all on one floor. Let's say the square footage
of this ranch is 2,000 sq. ft. If this house has a full basement
that's a lot of dirt to be removed to accomodate a foundation. A
two story home such as a Colonial or Georgian style with the same
square footage will require half as much excavation. These style
of homes usually have close to equal the amount of square feet on
both floors. For this phase of construction a single story home
requires twice the labor and twice the material to be removed for
the foundation. After backfilling the foundation, any extra dirt
that can't be spread about the lot, has to be hauled away. This
could be a sizable burden to your construction budget.
The foundation is another place to save money on your
construction costs. Using the same 2000 sq. ft. house as an
example, footings and foundation walls must be poured to support
2000 sq. ft. of deck for the living space. A two story would only
require enough walls and footings for a 1000 sq.ft. as the second
floor would be stacked on top of the first floor and utilizing
the same foundation walls. If both style homes have a full
basement its easy to see that the ranch is going to cost double
to pour a concrete floor. this cost is usually figured by the
square foot.
The third major cost saving phase is the roof system. A two story
home has half the roof. This means cutting the amount of lumber
in half. If the rafters for this structure are 2x10 or 2x12, this
can be quite a savings. Add in for the longer lumber lengths
needed for steeper pitched roofs like a 10/12 or 12/12 and the
savings become even more substantial. Also, when building this
type of home, only half as much plywood is needed to cover our
framing. With the rising costs of lumber, this is another good
reason to go with a two story home. The roofing materials used
is also affected. Again. only half the materials are needed to do
the job. This is another task that is figured by the square foot.
There are many ways to save money when building your own home.
These three parts of constructing a home are the major ways to
save. If you want more bang for your buck, consider a two story
home.
(c) Mike Merisko 2006 www.sawkerfs.com
your money, consider a two story home. There are major parts of
the construction process that can save you money over building a
ranch style home. The three major areas to cut costs are
excavation, the foundation, and the roof.
When excavating for a ranch style home, you are digging a hole
for living space all on one floor. Let's say the square footage
of this ranch is 2,000 sq. ft. If this house has a full basement
that's a lot of dirt to be removed to accomodate a foundation. A
two story home such as a Colonial or Georgian style with the same
square footage will require half as much excavation. These style
of homes usually have close to equal the amount of square feet on
both floors. For this phase of construction a single story home
requires twice the labor and twice the material to be removed for
the foundation. After backfilling the foundation, any extra dirt
that can't be spread about the lot, has to be hauled away. This
could be a sizable burden to your construction budget.
The foundation is another place to save money on your
construction costs. Using the same 2000 sq. ft. house as an
example, footings and foundation walls must be poured to support
2000 sq. ft. of deck for the living space. A two story would only
require enough walls and footings for a 1000 sq.ft. as the second
floor would be stacked on top of the first floor and utilizing
the same foundation walls. If both style homes have a full
basement its easy to see that the ranch is going to cost double
to pour a concrete floor. this cost is usually figured by the
square foot.
The third major cost saving phase is the roof system. A two story
home has half the roof. This means cutting the amount of lumber
in half. If the rafters for this structure are 2x10 or 2x12, this
can be quite a savings. Add in for the longer lumber lengths
needed for steeper pitched roofs like a 10/12 or 12/12 and the
savings become even more substantial. Also, when building this
type of home, only half as much plywood is needed to cover our
framing. With the rising costs of lumber, this is another good
reason to go with a two story home. The roofing materials used
is also affected. Again. only half the materials are needed to do
the job. This is another task that is figured by the square foot.
There are many ways to save money when building your own home.
These three parts of constructing a home are the major ways to
save. If you want more bang for your buck, consider a two story
home.
(c) Mike Merisko 2006 www.sawkerfs.com
Homebuilding: Laying Tongue and Groove Plywood
You have just finished framing the first floor deck for a brand new
home and your ready to start putting down the 3/4" tongue and
groove plywood. If you framed it well and got your 16" centers
laid out right, the process should go smooth as silk. The key to
success is in the framing of the joists.
The first step in laying plywood over the floor joists is to snap
a chalk line. This gives you a straight line to follow. I always
snap this line at 48 1/4" in off the edge of the rim joist. This
ensures that in the course of installation the plywood (which is
48" wide) will not hang over the edge of the rim joist. It
doesn't matter whether you start in the front or back of the
house.
For best results, start where you have the longest run without a
jog in or out in the foundation.
After you have snapped your line, determine which joist the first
sheet of plywood will break. If the joists where laid out 16"
o.c. (on center) from the end of the building, the edge of the
plywood would split the joist at 8 feet. Sometimes the roof
layout determines the floor joist layout. This is usually the
case when the roof is a hip roof. In this instance start with the
joist that will allow the plywood to cover all the joists, even
if it hangs over the edge of the first joist. This will be cut
off later.
After you have determined where to start, apply construction
adhesive to the top edge of the joists. Apply no more than 48"
the width of the plywood. Lay the first sheet in the glue with
the groove edge on the chalk line. Holding the sheet to the line,
nail the leading edge of the plywood to the rim joist so it
splits the joist. You'll be covering 3/4 of an inch of the joist
with 3/4" exposed. Still holding the plywood to the chalk line,
put a nail in the rim joist at the first joist.
Now put nails in the rim joist where the floor joists are nailed
into it. When nailing off the field these nails can be used as a
guide to find the joists.
Now the groove edge can be nailed. On the leading edge, move the
joist so the edge of the plywood splits the joist. Once you have
the joist where you want it, nail the plywood to it. Now taking
your tape measure, hook the leading edge of the joist you just
nailed, and pull it along the edge of the plywood. Mark 16"
centers on the plywood and pull the leading edge of the joists to
this mark and nail them. This will help keep the joists in line
and will help make sure future course of plywood break on 16"
centers no matter which joist you start with.
Glue up the joists for the next sheet. Butt the next sheet to the
one previously installed, making sure to hold it to the chalk
line and nail the groove edge corner. Nail it to the rim joist
just like the first sheet. Once again move the joist so the
plywood splits it. Hook that joist with your tape, mark centers
and move the joists to the lines. Keep laying the plywood in this
fashion to the other end of the building.
Your now ready for the next course of plywood. If I've started
with a full 96" sheet on my first course, I like to start my
second row with a 48" piece. This works great if the building
length is in increments of 4 feet (24',28',32',36' etc.). This
isn't always the case. If the building is an odd length you can
usually use your ending cutoff to start the next course. Stagger
the joints a minimum of 32" apart.
Start the next course by gluing the joists. Do not apply the glue
more than 4' beyond the first course of plywood. Stand the sheet
on its tongue edge next to the groove edge of the sheet you are
standing on. Make sure its butt edge is lined up on the joist it
is breaking on and let it fall into the glue. As it hits the
glued up joists, step on it and try to pull it in with your foot.
Only under the right conditions will the tongue go completely
into the groove. Sometimes the sheet can be jumped into the
groove. This involves standing on the sheet and jump with force
towards the the sheets in the previous row. In most cases it
takes a sledgehammer and a 4' to 6' 2x4 beater block to persuade
the sheets together. The block keeps the groove edge from getting
damaged by the sledge. This is a two person operation. One stands
on the tongue edge of the plywood to guide the sheet into the
groove while the swings the sledgehammer. This will be the
process for the rest of the installation.
Once the piece is in place, nail off the tongue edge, making sure
the leading edge is breaking on a joist. Move the joist so the
groove edge breaks on the joist. Pull 16" centers from that
joist, mark the plywood, move the joists if necessary, and nail
them off.
To keep the joists at the ends of the building straight, do not
glue or nail them. Ideally we'd like the plywood to be hanging
over the ends. After all the plywood is in place, snap a line
from one corner to the other and cut this over hanging plywood
off. Move this joist to the cut edge to make it straight and nail
it off.
Tips:
-Field can be nailed as you go (recommended to set sheet in
glue)
or after all plywood is in place.
-do not glue more than 4' out from sheet. Keeps glue off your
tape
when you pull centers.
-When nailing groove edge, nail at least 2" from edge to keep
from
collapsing groove.
-Before installing plywood, check for damaged grooves and
tongues.
Mike Merisko (c) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
home and your ready to start putting down the 3/4" tongue and
groove plywood. If you framed it well and got your 16" centers
laid out right, the process should go smooth as silk. The key to
success is in the framing of the joists.
The first step in laying plywood over the floor joists is to snap
a chalk line. This gives you a straight line to follow. I always
snap this line at 48 1/4" in off the edge of the rim joist. This
ensures that in the course of installation the plywood (which is
48" wide) will not hang over the edge of the rim joist. It
doesn't matter whether you start in the front or back of the
house.
For best results, start where you have the longest run without a
jog in or out in the foundation.
After you have snapped your line, determine which joist the first
sheet of plywood will break. If the joists where laid out 16"
o.c. (on center) from the end of the building, the edge of the
plywood would split the joist at 8 feet. Sometimes the roof
layout determines the floor joist layout. This is usually the
case when the roof is a hip roof. In this instance start with the
joist that will allow the plywood to cover all the joists, even
if it hangs over the edge of the first joist. This will be cut
off later.
After you have determined where to start, apply construction
adhesive to the top edge of the joists. Apply no more than 48"
the width of the plywood. Lay the first sheet in the glue with
the groove edge on the chalk line. Holding the sheet to the line,
nail the leading edge of the plywood to the rim joist so it
splits the joist. You'll be covering 3/4 of an inch of the joist
with 3/4" exposed. Still holding the plywood to the chalk line,
put a nail in the rim joist at the first joist.
Now put nails in the rim joist where the floor joists are nailed
into it. When nailing off the field these nails can be used as a
guide to find the joists.
Now the groove edge can be nailed. On the leading edge, move the
joist so the edge of the plywood splits the joist. Once you have
the joist where you want it, nail the plywood to it. Now taking
your tape measure, hook the leading edge of the joist you just
nailed, and pull it along the edge of the plywood. Mark 16"
centers on the plywood and pull the leading edge of the joists to
this mark and nail them. This will help keep the joists in line
and will help make sure future course of plywood break on 16"
centers no matter which joist you start with.
Glue up the joists for the next sheet. Butt the next sheet to the
one previously installed, making sure to hold it to the chalk
line and nail the groove edge corner. Nail it to the rim joist
just like the first sheet. Once again move the joist so the
plywood splits it. Hook that joist with your tape, mark centers
and move the joists to the lines. Keep laying the plywood in this
fashion to the other end of the building.
Your now ready for the next course of plywood. If I've started
with a full 96" sheet on my first course, I like to start my
second row with a 48" piece. This works great if the building
length is in increments of 4 feet (24',28',32',36' etc.). This
isn't always the case. If the building is an odd length you can
usually use your ending cutoff to start the next course. Stagger
the joints a minimum of 32" apart.
Start the next course by gluing the joists. Do not apply the glue
more than 4' beyond the first course of plywood. Stand the sheet
on its tongue edge next to the groove edge of the sheet you are
standing on. Make sure its butt edge is lined up on the joist it
is breaking on and let it fall into the glue. As it hits the
glued up joists, step on it and try to pull it in with your foot.
Only under the right conditions will the tongue go completely
into the groove. Sometimes the sheet can be jumped into the
groove. This involves standing on the sheet and jump with force
towards the the sheets in the previous row. In most cases it
takes a sledgehammer and a 4' to 6' 2x4 beater block to persuade
the sheets together. The block keeps the groove edge from getting
damaged by the sledge. This is a two person operation. One stands
on the tongue edge of the plywood to guide the sheet into the
groove while the swings the sledgehammer. This will be the
process for the rest of the installation.
Once the piece is in place, nail off the tongue edge, making sure
the leading edge is breaking on a joist. Move the joist so the
groove edge breaks on the joist. Pull 16" centers from that
joist, mark the plywood, move the joists if necessary, and nail
them off.
To keep the joists at the ends of the building straight, do not
glue or nail them. Ideally we'd like the plywood to be hanging
over the ends. After all the plywood is in place, snap a line
from one corner to the other and cut this over hanging plywood
off. Move this joist to the cut edge to make it straight and nail
it off.
Tips:
-Field can be nailed as you go (recommended to set sheet in
glue)
or after all plywood is in place.
-do not glue more than 4' out from sheet. Keeps glue off your
tape
when you pull centers.
-When nailing groove edge, nail at least 2" from edge to keep
from
collapsing groove.
-Before installing plywood, check for damaged grooves and
tongues.
Mike Merisko (c) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com
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