Homebuilding Information and Planning

Choosing The Right Type Of Residential Doors-Entry Doors

2010-03-08T20:52:00.000-08:00

There are many types of exterior and interior doors to choose from when building a house. These include the front entry door, back door, sliding and french patio doors, garage service doors, bedroom, bathroom, closet and pocket doors.

Entry Doors

Entry doors are often the focal point of a house. They are available in a variety of materials and styles. The most popular doors are made of steel or fiberglass. Wood entry doors are being used less often due to being susceptible to rot, seasonal movement, warpage and weathering. Wood exterior doors also need more maintenance than steel or fiberglass doors.

Styles that were once available in wood can now be found in steel and fiberglass. Six panel doors are often the style chosen by most buyers. Fiberglass doors are made with simulated woodgrain and can often be mistaken for a wood door.

A front door can be made more attractive by adding a number of components to it. One item that can be added to an entry door to make it more elegant are sidelights. Transoms are often added above a front door. These can be square windows, but more often can be in the form of a half round or an elipsce.

This is the first in a series of articles about residential doors. Next up, patio and back doors.

For more articles on doors, go to www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding Lumber Checklist

2009-03-29T19:26:00.000-07:00

Where do you start when figuring the lumber you need to build a house? For a lot of people doing a lumber takeoff from a blueprint could be a daunting task. By taking logical steps anyone with basic knowledge of how a house is built can make a lumber checklist.

The easiest way to figure lumber amounts to build a house is to start at the beginning. By this I mean figure the lumber in the order you would build it. Start with the sill plates and finish with the plywood on the roof.

Go to www.sawkerfs.com to read the rest of this article.

The Cost Of Building A Garage

2009-02-14T12:06:00.000-08:00

I was recently ask by a friend to work up a cost estimate for a 24 x 30 garage. The estimate was for a high school and they wanted to determine if it was in their budget. The items I would have to price for the estimate would be, the concrete slab, building materials, carpentry labor and electrical. All of this would be done without the aid of a blueprint as that would bean unnecessary expense if it was found to be beyond their budget. Normally this is an easy thing to do, but I only had two days to get this all together.

My friend had already gotten a price for materials from one of the big box stores. This made my estimate easier and saved me a lot of time, but I still like to double check their list to make sure they did not miss anything. This materials list included:

-all the lumber to frame the walls
-plywood to sheet the walls and roof
-roof trusses
-vinyl siding
-aluminum soffit and fascia materials
-felt paper and shingles
-a service door and an overhead door

Based on my building experience and the number of garages I have built, I was able to come up with a labor figure to build the shell. It would include building the garage using all of the materials listed above. The school would also supply some volunteer labor for the project.

Using my contacts, I called a couple of concrete contractors to give an estimate on material and labor to pour a 24 x 30 concrete slab. Without a blueprint with the specs. the village would want, their estimate would be based on what is normal and usaul building practices. This included a thickened 12" x 24" slab around the perimeter, 4 thick floor reinforced with steel mesh, a curb, the floor sloped 3" back to front, and a 5' wide apron across the front of the garage. I called two contractors and they both got back to me in a day.

The electric was a tough one to determine. I was able to get in touch with only one electrical contractor. He had a hard time nailing down a figure for his work without seeing the project site.
The things that would determine his cost were, how far would he have to trench in the electric, How far away was the main electric panel, and how much room was available in that panel for additional circuits. After much debate I came up with a figure that should be close to what it would cost.

There are other costs that should be considered. First,there should be a blueprint. This will need to be submitted to the village for approval. The cost of drawing the blueprint will need to be figured in the budget. Secondly, if the project is a go, permits will have to be pulled with the village. There may also be the cost of a dumpster for construction waste.

This is a pretty basic construction project for someone familiar with the trades. There are variables to every situation but for anyone not familiar with a project this size this is basically a road map as to what needs to be done.

For more homebuilding and remodeling tips go to: www.sawkerfs.com

Mike Merisko (C)2009

Hanging Drywall On Curved Walls

2008-12-20T21:20:00.000-08:00

Recently, the question came up on how do you bend drywall around curved or radius walls. One might not have to apply drywall to a curved surface very often, but its good information to have when you do.

Depending on the size of the curve or radius that is being covered, will determine what thickness of drywall will be used. A radius of 2 foot or smaller may require multiple layers of 1/4" thick drywall. Normal residential drywall applications use 1/2" drywall to finish walls. In this case two layers of 1/4" would be used.

The trick is to get the drywall to bend. To do this the drywall needs to be wet. The best way I have found is to put water on the drywall is with a garden sprayer. The easiest way to control the bending of the drywall is to lay it in a form matching the radius of the wall, soffit, ceiling or whatever the application might be.

The last drywall bend I did I had the benefit of using the actual wall section to use as a form. It was an eight foot high wall, framed to a three foot radius. Only one side of the wall was being covered, the inside radius. We decided to cover the radius with one layer of 1/4" plywood and one layer of 1/4" drywall to match the 1/2" on the straight walls.

We laid the wall framing inside radius down, on the floor. The overall length of the radius was just under eight feet. We laid two sheets face down over our form. We then started spraying the back side of the drywall with water. As we applied the water, the drywall started bending immediately. It didn't take very much water or time to get the ends of the drywall to droop down and touch the form.

We let the dampened drywall lay on the form overnight to dry. The next day when we lifted the drywall from the form, it kept the shape of the radius. When it came time to glue and screw the drywall to the curved framing, it fit like a glove with very little if any stress to the material.

Its not very often that one gets to hang drywall on a curved wall, but with a little knowledge, you'll look like a professional.

Mike Merisko (C)2008

For more articles go to www.sawkerfs.com

Installing Vinyl Siding

2008-12-07T12:07:00.000-08:00

Of all the available exterior finishes, vinyl siding is probably the easiest to install. By following a few basic rules to the installation of vinyl siding, almost anyone can do it.

The first rule is to start out level and straight. The starter strip that holds the first course of siding must be installed level and straight. This helps insure that the following courses are also level and straight. It also helps if other siding accessories are also installed properly. Outside corners must be installed plumb and straight. Inside corners, undersill and j-channel accessories must also be correctly nailed in place.

The second rule is to NOT nail the vinyl siding tight to the wall. Because vinyl siding expands and contracts with variations in temperature, it must be allowed to move. Vinyl siding has a nailing strip with slots for nailing. Nails must be placed in the center of these slots. The nails must also not be nailed home. The nail head must be driven about an eighth of an inch short of the nailing strip. After nailing the siding must be able to slide to the left and right.

The third rule is to cut the siding to the proper length. Vinyl siding must not fit tight in corners or J-channels. Again this is to allow movement for temperature change. In cold weather, siding must be cut 3/8 inch short of the insides of corners and J-channels. In warm weather this measurement is 1/4 inch. When siding ends lap in a course, the siding must overlap a minimum of 3/4 of an inch.

By following the three basic rules one can have a professional looking vinyl siding installation job. It should look straight and level and be free of waves and "oil canning".

Mike Merisko (C)2008
For more siding articles visit www.sawkerfs.com

Solar Power Solutions At Home

2008-12-02T12:44:00.000-08:00

With energy sources depleting at a rate faster than they are being built, it is only wise that we use the abundant energy available for free – the solar energy. Apart from the easy availability, solar energy helps control environmental pollution. Most of us shy away from installing solar power solutions at home thinking them to be expensive and cumbersome. You will, however, be surprised to know how easy it is to employ these power solutions. Moreover, these will help cut down your power bills. Finally, you will be delighted to know tat you are doing your bit to save power for the future generations.

This article will explore the various solar power options available for home use.

Solar cooker: A solar cooker is a cooking utensil that uses absolutely no fuel for cooking. You can cook food for up to five people in the small box. If you are thinking that using a solar cooker will reduce your chances of spreading up a varied platter on the dining table, you will be surprised to know that you can not only boil food items in the cooker but also roast and bake! The only limitation with the solar cooker is the time it takes to cook. However, given the free source of energy it uses, this is a great option for cutting down those sky-rocketing bills and saving some power.

Solar home lighting: A solar home lighting system converts solar energy into electrical energy for your home. This is done via cells that are charged with solar energy. So, in the night, if you wonder how the lights are on in the house, it is because of the solar energy stored in the solar cells. You can install the solar home lighting system in your house and not worry about the electricity bills anymore.

Solar heating system: Installing a solar heating system in your home helps cutting down your electricity bill along with saving the world’s quickly-exhausting power. If you are worried that a solar heating system will turn your sweet home into a gadget house or that it will be an expensive investment, your concerns are misplaced. Companies providing solar power solutions for homes make it a point to install aesthetically-pleasing heating systems in your house. As per as expenditure is concerned, investing in a solar heating system is wise because you get a return on your investment within 3-4 years, giving you absolutely free service after that.

Make power at home with solar and wind energy to eliminate your power bill. Get our complete guide at www.earth4energy.com

What Nails To Use To Build A House

2008-10-21T20:30:00.000-07:00

What nails do you use to build a house? There are not that many different kinds of nails that are used to construct a home. The two most used nails to rough in a house are the 8 penny and 16 penny nail (8d and 16d).

Eight penny nails are used to nail down plywood or OSB (oriented strand board). This includes the sheet goods for the deck, the walls and the roof. Each sheet of plywood or OSB will take at least 80 nails to nail it down. A 2000 square foot house will use about 5,000 8d nails just for the plywood floors.

Sixteen penny nails are used to nail the homes framing members. These nails connect the joists to the sill plates and rim joists, top and bottom plates to studs,ceiling joists to top plates and rafters to top plates, ceiling joists and ridge board. Sixteen penny nails are also used to build headers and fly rafters. These nails also get used to nail wall bracing in place till other components like second floors, ceiling joists and rafters are nailed in place.

Other nails that play a part in building a house are 4d nails for cross bridging, cap nails for foam sheathing, roofing nails for shingles and galvinized splitless nails for wood siding. Depending on other finishes there are still other nails that are used, but the ones mentioned here are the ones used the most.

Mike Merisko(C)2008

www.sawkerfs.com

How To Build A Gable Overhang

2008-10-18T09:19:00.000-07:00

How To Build A Gable Overhang

How do you build a gable overhang? It can be tricky for a first timer but can be a fairly simple thing to do.

A normal gable overhang is usually 12 to 24 inches wide. It is made up of rafters that are called fly rafters and are usually constructed of 2x or 1x lumber. The fly rafters are usually one size smaller in width than the rafters used to frame the main roof. If the roof was framed with 2x8's the fly rafters would be 2x6's.

When framing the overhang, the ridge board is stopped with the last common rafter. By doing this, having to cut down and reduce the size of the ridge is avoided to match the plumb cut on the fly rafters. If the common rafters were 2x8's, the ridge would have to be a 2x10. If the fly rafters were 2x6's, the 2x10 ridge would hang below the plumb cut of the fly rafter, putting it in the way of the finish soffit material.

Three quarters of an inch must be added to the length of the fly rafters when cutting them to make up for the missing ridge. This is half the thickness of the ridge. Four rafters must be cut to make the gable overhang, two for each side of the gable.

Let's say the overhang is to be 12" wide and 2x6 lumber is used. What we build will
look like a ladder. Two 2x6 fly rafters are separated by 9", 2x6 blocks 24 inches on center, starting at the bottom of the plumb cut, and continuing down to at least the birdsmouth cut.

Once building the ladder they can be nailed against the last common rafter. Before lifting the overhangs up, start 16 penny nails in between all the blocking. This is to keep from holding the overhang in place, and trying to start a nail, all at the same time. The overhang is held tight to the last common rafter on the gable. The top of the fly rafter is held even with the top of the common rafter. The plumb cut on the fly rafter should line up with the center of the ridge board. When all these requirements are met, the overhang is then nailed to the common rafter. This procedure is then repeated for the other side of the gable.

The overhangs support themselves as their plumb cuts lean against each other and are nailed together. The bottoms of the overhangs are supported being nailed into a 2x subfascia. Additional support is added when the plywood sheathing is nailed to the common rafters and into the overhangs.

Gable overhangs built in this manner will provide nailing for whatever finish the soffit and fascia may be.

Mike Merisko (C)2008

www.sawkerfs.com

A Little Info On Composite Deck Lumber

2008-08-25T19:10:00.000-07:00

I recently built a deck around an oval pool. The railings, deck and trim boards where all composite materials. Composite lumber is a material that is a combination of wood and plastic. It seemed that these deck parts were made up of mostly plastic.

The longest pieces ordered for this deck where 12' long. All pieces were very dense and were considerably heavier than conventional deck materials (treated, cedar, redwood, etc.).

Even though these materials seemed to be mostly plastic, it worked like real wood. Its reaction to power tools like circular saws, miter saws, and routers was very similar to working with wood, if not better. It also chisled well, and at times seemed easier than wood.

All connections involving the composite materials was done with stainless steel screws. The deck boards (5 1/2" wide 1 1/4" thick) were screwed down to the joists with stainless steel trim screws. When the screws were buried below the deck boards surface, the material mushroomed around the head of the screw. Hitting this area back down with a hammer made the screws nearly invisible. This was also the case with the railings and trim boards.

The cost of composite decking and railings is more than conventional lumber. The fact that composite materials will not rot, fade or need to be stained or painted may far outweigh that cost factor.

Mike Merisko (C)2008

www.sawkerfs.com

Garage Building in the UP of Michigan, Part 5

2008-01-01T13:36:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!

We ended up staying in the UP for an extra day to finish building the garage. The only Things we had left to finish were the gable ends and laying the felt paper on the other side of the gable roof.

The studs for framing the gable ends had already been cut by Tim the day before off of numbers I had given to him. By measuring the stud under the ridge I can determine the length of all the gable studs on 16 inch centers. By knowing the pitch of the roof (7/12), multiply the rise per foot times four. In this case that's 28 inches. Thats how much the roof pitch falls in 4 feet. There are 3 studs in four feet so we divide 28 inches by 3. This is 9 and 1/3 of an inch. When the studs are cut, each one will be 9 and 1/3 inches shorter than the proceeding one. If the first stud is 70 inches, the next one will be 60 and 2/3 inches, followed by 51 1/3", 42" and so on.

Tony and I nailed in all the gable studs. While we did that, Tim and Jim cut the plywood for the gable ends. I gave Tim the numbers for these cuts also. We already know the roof falls 28" every four feet. If the height under the ridge is 70", the short side cut on the plywood will be 42 inches. the next piece will be 42 inches on the long side and 14 inches on the short side. To get the last piece measure whats left on what would be the bottom of the plywood. In this case it would be 24 inches. The last piece would be 14 inches on the long side to 0 inches on the short side and 24 inches long across the bottom.

Once Tony and I finished the framing on the gable ends, we started putting the plywood (OSB) on the gables. This went fairly quickly since it was already precut for us. This left only the felt paper to be put on.

We saved the felt paper for last because we wanted to make sure there was no frost on the roof. We also put the felt in the house to keep it warm so it would lay flatter. The felt we put on the day before did not want to lay flat and would tear easily if we weren't careful. We were hoping for a snowfall soon after we finished. Any high winds would rip the paper and reduce the protection from the weather. Snow would cover the paper and protect it from the wind.

We covered the garage door and service door openings with plastic to keep any snow out of garage for our final detail before packing up and heading back home.

All things considered the project went well. Weather was a factor but not as much as it could have been. It was cold but there was no wind and it did not snow. As long as you kept active it didn't seem as cold as the thermometer indicated.

The nail guns did not work as well in the cold weather by either jamming more frequently or the plunger not recovering fast enough to bounce nail the plywood. Oiling the guns helped reduce these problems.

Would I do it again? If I could be guaranteed the same weather conditions, yes. Snow and wind would have made the project difficult to do and would have taken longer to complete.

Mike Merisko

www.sawkerfs.com

Garage Building in the UP of Michigan, Part 4

2007-12-29T14:24:00.000-08:00

Monday morning was another 8 below zero start. We planned to be finished on this day but we had a lot of work ahead of us. To finish we had the fascia to put on, the fly rafters (overhang) to nail together and install on the back of the garage, the flying gable overhang on the front of the garage, sheet the roof and put on the felt paper, and frame and sheet the gable ends.

The first thing we did was nail on the 2x6 fascia. We set up a 20' aluminum plank on ladder jacks to span the snow that was piled up along side the garage walls to make the installation easier. We let the fascia hang past the last rafter at each end of the garage two feet. This was to have something to nail the tails of our fly rafters and our flying gable rafters to.

I had cut the fly rafters and their blocking the day before. Tony and Jim nailed these together to get them ready for installation. These would be pretty heavy being they were made up of two 2x6's 16 feet long with six 2x6 spacers to make them 24 inches wide. While Tony and Jim worked on these I cut the rafters for the flying gable.

We installed the fly rafters first. Tim and Tony passed them up to Jim and I on top of the ceiling/floor joists. Tony then joined Jim and I to help hold and line up the fly rafters flush with the tops of the last rafters. After we nailed the fly rafter on one side, Tim would nail the tails to the fascia board. We repeated this procedure on the other side of the gable. I then nailed the plumb cuts together at the ridge to complete the installation to give the garage its 24 inch overhang on the back gable.

For the front gable we set up a scaffold under the ridge to be able to nail the flying gable rafters to the ridge. There were six rafters to make up the flying gable, three on each side of the ridge. Tim passed the rafters to Tony and I. Tony would nail the rafter tail to the fascia and I nailed the plumb cut to the ridge. The last rafter angled from the fascia, which was two feet passed the wall, to the ridge, which stuck out four feet passed the gable.

With the fascia on and our gable overhangs on, we could now sheet the roof. Tim got the plywood (OSB) ready by stacking it on horses and leaning it against the fascia. Tony and I snapped a line 47 1/2 inches up from the rafter tails to start our first course of plywood. This lets the plywood lap over the fascia without hanging out beyond it. Jim and I tacked the sheets down while Tony nailed them off behind us with a nail gun. After we got the first course down, we nailed a 2x4's flat across it for a toe board. This was for a little insurance to keep us, tools and plywood from sliding off the roofs 7/12 pitch. Between passing up plywood and toe boards, Tim also made any necessary cuts that had to be made for us.

The plywood went down without a hitch on the first side and went even quicker on the other side of the gable. We followed the same pattern for our plywood layout since it created very little waste. Even the numbers for Tims plywood cuts were almost the same.

With all the plywood on the roof, Tony and I started putting felt over it. Tim and Jim cut the felt to length for us rather than take the whole roll up on the roof. Tim probably won't shingle the roof till spring so he wanted to help protect the sheeting over the winter with the felt. Hopefully it will snow on the felt so it won't blow off.

It got dark on us quick so we had to quit. We still had to felt the other side of the roof and frame and sheath the gable walls. We would have to stay one more day to finish.

Next: Day 4, Finishing up

Mike Merisko

www.sawkerfs.com

Garage Building in the UP of Michigan, Part 3

2007-12-27T17:44:00.000-08:00

Day two started out at 8 degrees below zero, but like the previous day there was no wind. It seemed to warm up rather quickly this day and was able to ditch the Carharts by 10 o'clock.

We started the morning with Tony and Jim Installing the garage door header and framing and sheathing the front wall. Tim helped me stack and mark the 2x8's to get them ready to cut into rafters. The roof was a gable roof with a two foot overhang on the back gable and a two foot overhang on the side walls. The overhang on the front of the garage was 4 feet at the ridge and tapered back to 2 feet at the side fascia.

To get my rafter lengths, I used what I like to call my "bible". My "bible" is the rafter table book, "The Full Length Roof Framer", by A. F. J. Riechers. All I have to do is go to the 7/12 pitch span tables and look up the span of the building, outside of wall to outside of wall, and this gives me the length of the rafter from the ridge to the back of the birdsmouth. Add four more feet to the span and I have the length of the rafter plus the overhang before deducting for the ridge and fascia.

As I finished cutting the roof, Tony and Jim finished the header and front wall and straightened and braced all the walls, getting them ready for the ceiling joists and rafters.

Tony and I nailed the ceiling joists to the tops of the walls with Tim and Jim handing them up to us. Because Tim wanted attic storage, the joists were 2x10, 24 feet long, 16 inches on center. Once all the joists were up, we ran two courses of OSB from front to back for a platform to frame the roof. We framed the roof with Tony and Jim working the walls while I worked the ridge. Tim handed up the rafters as we needed them.

We didn't quite get as far as I would have liked this day, but under the conditions we did okay. Each day we would stop and go inside to warm up and have a hot lunch.
Because we had only eight hours of daylight, we did about 7 hours of work, allowing for an hour lunch.

Day 3: Overhangs, Fascia, Plywood

Mike Merisko

www.sawkerfs.com

Garage Building in the UP of Michigan, Part Two

2007-12-25T06:33:00.000-08:00

Woke up Saturday morning thinking it was gonna be warmer than the night before. I couldn't have been more wrong! The temperature that morning was 11 below zero! Fortunately I anticipated cold weather and packed my Carhart coveralls, long underwear, my insulated boots and spare gloves. What we had going for us was the fact that there was no wind. Don't think we could have built the garage if we would have had wind chills of 20 degrees below zero or more.

There was a good foot of snow on the ground but the 22x24 slab was already cleared of snow. All the lumber was there and was covered to keep it free of snow. It was stacked in the order we were going to use it except for the ceiling joists which were on the bottom and had to be dug out to be cut before being nailed in place.

When building a detached garage, I sometimes like to build the walls, stand them up, and then sheath them. I plumb the framing and let the plywood or OSB lock it in when its nailed on. Because of the snow piled around the slab we weren't able to do this.

After laying out the treated sill plates for the anchor bolts and drilling them out with a 5/8" spade bit, I marked our stud layout on them. I started the wall layout on the side walls from the front of the garage on 16" centers. The one sidewall had a 36" service door in it so I marked it for a 38" rough opening, then laid out my 16" centers. The back and front walls would be laid out from the center of the wall. Later, my gable studs will follow this layout and put a stud right under the ridge board.

Because of the snow, we would have to build the walls on the slab, just like you would when building a house. After they were framed, we squared the walls by measuring them corner to corner, racking the frame till both measurements were the same. We also wanted to keep our bottom plate straight. We did this by keeping the plate edge on the line we snapped for the sill plate, checking to make sure we stayed on it as we nailed the OSB on the frames.

While Tony and Jim (one of the locals and friend of Tim) framed and sheeted the walls, Tim and I dug out the 2x10 by 24' ceiling joists so they could be cut to length and have the roof pitch cut put on them.

As Tony and Jim finished framing, sheeting and wrapping a wall with Tyvek, we would all help stand it up. We laid 2x4 cutoffs flat on the slab near the anchor bolts. We raised the wall onto the 2x4's and lined up the 5/8" holes in the sill plate with the anchor bolts. With minimal lifting and persuading with a sledge hammer, we removed the 2x4's one by one as the holes fell over the bolts. We tapped the wall in place to our chalk lines with the sledge and bolted it down. We held the wall up with a-frames since the ground was too frozen to drive stakes into it.

While everybody was busy with the walls, I cut the ceiling joists to length and put the pitch cut on them. This cut is so they don't stick up above the rafters and get in the way of the plywood sheathing.

After I finished cutting the joists, Tim and I pulled out the two 18 foot, 12" microlams that would be used for the garage door header. I checked the opening in the concrete for the opening and it was 16 feet on the money. I wanted to put double cripples under the header so I cut the microlams to 16'6".

The first day we got the side and back walls up, the joists ready and the garage header ready. It was cold but as long as you were working you kept warm. I was able to takeoff my Carharts by noon as it had "warmed" up to the teens.

Tomorrow day 2

Mike Merisko
www.sawkerfs.com

Garage Building in the UP of Michigan

2007-12-24T10:43:00.000-08:00

Been a while since I posted any articles, but its been a pretty busy fall.

I was recently approached to build a garage in the upper peninsula of Michigan. It wouldn't happen till the middle of December so I was a bit hesitant to take on the project. After some thought I decided what the hell, I'm not that busy at that time, and committed to doing it.

My first move was to recruit some quality help. My first choice backed out because of the possible weather conditions (couldn't blame him). My second choice caught the flu the day we were gonna leave. Fortunately I found a replacement (Tony) at the last moment, just hours before we were scheduled to leave.

We met at the homeowners house (Tim) in the west suburbs of Chicago and left on a Friday afternoon for a six hour drive to the UP. As we drove northward, we could watch the temperature fall in the rear view mirror of the vehicle. When we left Chicago it was in the upper 20's. By the time we got to our destination in the UP, around 9:30, it was 0. I was thinking that wasn't bad, at daybreak when we start building, it has to be warmer. Boy was I wrong!

Tomorrow I'll tell you how our first day went and the conditions we had to work in.

Mike Merisko
www.sawkerfs.com

The Speed Square: A Carpenters Choice

2007-08-28T20:07:00.000-07:00

The most used tool in residential construction is the Swanson Speed Square. From laying the sill plates on the foundation wall to laying out rafter cuts and everything in between, the speed square is arguably the most important tool on a carpenters tool pouch.

The speed square is also a tool of convenience. It has replaced the cumbersome but reliable combination square as the carpenters choice. Its triangular shape makes it easy for the tradesman to keep on hand and in easy reach. Because of its shape, it can be kept in a tool pouch, on a hook on ones side, or even in your back pocket.

The speed square is packed with useful features and can be used for more than just squaring up lumber. Since its shape is a right triangle, one side is a 45 degree angle. This is convenient for quickly marking miters, 12/12 pitch rafters and anything else that might require that angle.

Another feature makes wall layout quicker. For instance, if your laying out a stud and cripple for a door or window, the speed square never has to leave the plate. Once the line is drawn for the stud location, there are marks on the inside of the square parallel to the plates edge from 1" to 3 1/2 inches in quarter inch increments, that can be used to measure over an 1 1/2" for the other side of the stud. This can be achieved by lining up the 1 1/2" mark on the previously drawn line and making a mark for the other side of the stud. Do this again and you've got an1 1 1/2" space for the cripple. By using the 3 1/2" mark one can layout the wall leads for wall intersections.

Along the edge used for squaring is a ruler. This has marks every 1/8th inch up to seven inches. Opposite the rule on the inside edge of the square, there are notches to put your pencil into to scribe lines parallel to the edge of your work. These notches are spaced at 1/4 inch, from 3/4" to 2 1/2". There is a diamond cutout at 3 1/2" for a scribe of 3 3/8", 3 1/2", and 3 5/8".

All these features are very useful but the main reason one would buy a speed square is for the rafter cut layout feature. Along the 45 degree angle edge there are marks for common rafters and hip and valley rafters for pitches 1 in 12 up to 30 in 12. Along the very edge are marks for degrees of angles. These marks start at 1 degree up to 90 degrees.

Along with the speed square a booklet is included with information on how to use the square, rafter tables to give you rafter lengths, and information on how to layout cuts for common, hip and valley rafters. The booklet alone is worth the price of the speed square.

If your doing any type of framing,the speed square is one tool you should not be without. The name says it all. It allows you to do many tasks quickly and accurately.
I almost forgot another use. I once saw a carpenter use his speed square to eat potato salad.

Mike Merisko (C) 2007

www.sawkerfs.com

Alternatives To Wood Siding

2007-07-30T20:21:00.000-07:00

When I first started building homes, the only siding I thought should be used to cover a home was wood. As the years went by I began to see the advantages of using the alternative sidings of vinyl and cement board. Both sidings are ecologically sound and economical.

Initially, wood siding can look great on a new house. Over time, Mother Natures elements can diminish the beauty of wood siding. The sun can fade the paint or stain on the siding. The sun can also dry out the siding, causing it to cup, crack, and split, sometimes to the point of replacement.

A wet climate can attract insects. Some of the most common critters are carpenter ants, termites, and silver fish. If these insects are present on or behind the siding, they can attract birds such as woodpeckers. They can peck away till there is a hole in the siding, giving them access to food and opening up a home to possible water damage and more insects.

Depending on the size of a house that has had wood siding installed, up keep and maintenance can be an expensive proposition. Eventually, a house sided with wood will have to be repainted. For the do-it-yourself weekend warrior, this could take a whole summer of weekends. Should one contract the job out to a painting contractor, the cost could run into the thousands.

Vinyl and cement sidings have virtually eliminated most if not all of the above mentioned problems that can come with a house clad with wood siding. Both are made of materials that seemed to be ignored by insects and birds.

Cement siding is relatively new to residential construction compared to wood, aluminum, steel and vinyl. Unlike wood sidings, cement siding will not crack, split,
cup or warp when exposed to the elements and should last a lifetime. One drawback to cement siding is the fact that it has to be painted. Being exposed to the weather, at some point a house with this siding will have to be repainted. Of the two alternative sidings mentioned here, cement siding is more expensive. It is also more labor intensive to install.

Vinyl has displaced all other materials as the siding of choice in residential construction. There are a variety of reasons for this rise in popularity and its easy to see why. Unlike the former siding champ, aluminum, vinyl will not dent and scratches do not show as much because the color is all the way through. Once one chooses the sidings color, it may never have to be painted. Vinyl will not split, crack, or cup like wood. It also does not attract insects like wood. Vinyl is economical, virtually maintenance free, and easy to install.

Everyone has their preferences when it comes to exterior finishes. With rising costs of natural materials, these preferences may change. As time goes on these alternative materials will keep expanding their place in the building industry.

Mike Merisko (C) 2007

www.sawkerfs.com

Cutting Common Rafters

2007-06-08T18:40:00.000-07:00

Common rafters are, well, the most common rafter when it comes to residential roof framing. Gable roofs are built with all common rafters, as are shed roofs. A hip roof, depending on the length of the building, has at least four common rafters. The rest of the rafters in a hip roof are called hip and jack rafters.

The first step in cutting a common rafter is finding its length. To find the length one must know the distance the rafters must span to make up the roof. The span is found by measuring the width of the building. This measurement is taken from the outside of the walls including the wall sheathing. If the width of the building is 30 feet, and the roof pitch is a 6/12, these are the factors that will be used to find the rafter length.

There are several methods that are used to get the rafter length. Two of the most popular means of finding that rafter length are the construction calculator and rafter table books ("The Full Length Roof Framer" by A. F. J. Riechers). Both ways will give a precise number to cut your rafter to. The book "The Full Length Roof Framer", is also full of roof cutting secrets.

For our example we will use the 30 foot building width and a pitch of 6/12. This means our rafters will rise 6 inches for every 12 inches of run. Using the book "The Full Length Roof Framer", and opening it to the rafter tables for a 6/12 pitch, you will find all kinds of information about that roof pitch. Under the common rafter table and the span column in feet, read down till you find 30 feet. Next to it you will find the length of the rafter which is 16'9 1/4". This is the length of the rafter but there are a few more calculations to be factored in.

To lay out the rafter cuts on a 2x, I like to use a framing square. I feel its more precise than a speed square, which is a great layout tool in its own right.

To start, pick out a straight 2x to make your rafter cut layout on. This will be your pattern to cut all your common rafters from. If it has any crown at all, that will be the top of your rafter. Lay the 2x on a pair of horses with the top away from you. Since our roof pitch is a 6/12, these will be the numbers we will use on the framing square.

Starting on the left end of our 2x, lay the framing square on the 2x with 6" on the outside edge of the tongue on the bottom edge of the 2x. Put 12"on the outside edge of the body of the square on the bottom edge of the 2x. Move the top of the tongue till it hits the upper left hand corner of the 2x. Scribe a line along the outside edge of the framing squares tongue. This is your plumb cut. If there will be a ridge board, the rafter will have to be shortened half the distance of the ridge. We'll get to that a little later. There are brass stair gauges that can be bought that clamp onto the square at the pitch you are using. Instead of lining up 6" and 12" every time, all you need to do is bump the gauges to the bottom of the 2x.

To get the length of the rafter to the birdsmouth, hook your tape measure to the upper left hand corner of the 2x. Pull the tape and mark 16' 9 1/4" on the top edge of the 2x. Put the framing square at 6" and 12" on the bottom of the 2x and line up the tongue of the square with the mark on the top edge of the 2x. This line represents the outside of the wall and the back of the birdsmouth.

The level cut for the birdsmouth is usually the thickness of the wall. If it is a 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, the level cut for the birdsmouth will be 4" long. To mark the birdsmouth, put the tongue of the square against the line. On the outside edge of the body, put 4" on the bottom edge of the 2x and draw a line on the outside edge of the square. The birdsmouth should end up being 2" deep.

Say we want to add an overhang to our rafters. In this instance lets say we want to add 12". Since we are adding 12" to the rafters on both sides of the house, we need to add two feet to our 30' span. Again we go to our rafter table book ("The Full Length Roof Framer"). Open the book to the 6/12 page and look up the span for 32 feet. The overall length of our rafter will increase to 17' 10 5/8".

To mark the plumb cut on the rafter tail, pull the tape from the upper left hand corner of our 2x (long point of our plumb cut). Mark 17' 10 5/8" on the top edge of the 2x. Again put 6" and 12" of the framing square on the bottom edge of the 2x and line it up with the mark on top of the 2x. Draw a line along the squares edge and this will be your tail cut.

Two more things must be considered to complete the layout of our rafter. As mentioned earlier, our rafter must be shortened to allow for the thickness of the ridge. In most cases the ridge board is a 2x or 1 1/2" thick. This means we must deduct one half the thickness of the ridge from our rafters or 3/4". On our 2x mark another line 3/4" to the right of our original plumb cut line. Do not measure along the top edge of the 2x but rather off of our original line. Either make one mark and draw a 6/12 pitch or make two marks and draw a line through them. Either way will work. This is your new cut line. Mark out our erase the original line so as not to get confused.

The other consideration is shortening the rafter tail to allow for the thickness of the fascia board. If the fascia is to be a 1x, shorten the tail 3/4". If its a 2x, shorten it 1 1/2". Shorten the tail cut in the same manner as the plumb cut. Make a line the thickness of the fascia parallel to the original rafter tail cut line. Again cross out the original line to lessen the confusion. The bottom of the tail cut may have to be clipped so it doesn't hang below the fascia board.

You now have the layout for a common rafter. You can now cut the lines that are marked on the 2x. When making these cuts, make them straight and with precision as this will be the pattern for marking and cutting the rest of the common rafters. When cutting out the birdsmouth, its okay to overcut the lines to completely remove the material.

I like to nail stops to the top of my rafter pattern. I use scraps of plywood about 4" long and about 3" wide. I nail one about 3 to 4 inches from the plumb cut, letting it hang over 3/4" on each side of the rafter. The other stop is nailed just above the birdsmouth, hanging over 3/4" each side of the rafter. Now all one has to do is put the stops against the crowned side of the 2x and trace the cuts to be made. If you laid out all your rafters individually, it would probably take 4 times longer or more.

It might sound like a complicated process, but after you have done this a couple times you can see how easy it can be.

Mike Merisko (c) 2007
www.sawkerfs.com

Framing A Hip Roof

2007-04-30T20:49:00.000-07:00

One of the two most popular roof designs, if not the most
popular is the hip roof. Not only does it add architectural
lines to the design of a house, but it also offers more
protection from the elements to walls, windows, and doors,
when framed with a generous overhang. It also lends more
to the structural integrity of a home with its rafters
tying off to all four corners and walls of the structure.

A hip roof is a little more complex to frame than a gable
roof. Besides a ridge board, a gable roof has only common
rafters (all rafters the same length) as its only components.
The components of a hip roof are the ridge board, common
rafters, hip rafters, and jack rafters. The hip roof does
not always have a ridge board. If the building is a square
with all four walls being the same length, there will be no
ridge and the roof will resemble a pyramid.

When cutting the common, hip and jack rafters, their lengths
can be determined by using a calculator or a rafter table
book like "The Full Length Roof Framer". Not only does it contain all the necessary rafter tables, but also the secrets to cutting a roof. The length of the
ridge can be determined by subtracting the width of the
building from its length. For example, if the building is
30 x 24, the ridge will be 6 feet in length. If the ridge
board is 1 1/2" thick (which is usually the case), then 1 1/2"
needs to be added to the ridge length. This is because all
common rafters are shortened half the thickness of the ridge
or 3/4". This allows the top of the common rafters to line up
with the top of the ridge at each end.

When framing a hip roof, always start with the common
rafters. This will place the ridge in its proper location.
This part of the roof is framed like a gable roof, but the
similarity ends there.

Start by nailing common rafters on one side of the ridge at
each end. Now raise the ridge and nail two rafters on the other
side of the ridge opposite the first two rafters. Once this is
done, push the ridge up so the birdsmouth cuts pull in tight to
the walls on each side of the building. These rafters can now be
nailed to the wall in their corresponding locations in relation
to the ridge. Now nail the two common rafters to the center of
the end walls and to the ends of the ridge board. This will lock
the ridge in its exact location. The rest of the common rafters
can be nailed to the wall and ridge board.

The next parts to be installed are the four hip rafters.
These are nailed on the outside corners of the buildings walls
and in the intersection made by the end and first common rafter
where they meet at the ridge. With the hips and common rafters in
place, its easy to see why this makes for such a strong and solid
roof.

With the hip rafters in place the jack rafters can be installed.
Before nailing on the first jack rafter, a string must be run from
the plumb cut on the hip rafter to just above the birdsmouth. This
can be done by driving a nail in the center of the hip at the above
mentioned locations. Tie the string to one nail, pull it tight, and
secure it to the other nail. This is to ensure the hip rafter stays
straight during the jack rafter installation. As the jacks are
nailed on, the string should be kept at the center of the hip. To
help keep the hip rafter straight, the jack rafters should be nailed
on in pairs, first one side of the hip, then its mate on the other.
This process is continued all the way down the the hip rafter till
all jack rafters are installed on both sides of the hip. Remove the
string and repeat this procedure on the remaining three hip rafters
to complete the framing of the roof.

Collar ties and fascia boards will need to be installed before the
roof can be sheathed, but these are the basic steps to framing a
hip roof.

Mike Merisko (C)2007
www.sawkerfs.com

Nail Guns:To Use Or Not To Use

2007-02-28T15:53:00.000-08:00

Whether you call them nail guns, air nailers, pneumatic air nailers, or just nailers, these tools have become a big part in the homebuilding process. Many if not all aspects of framing a house can be accomplished using a framing nailer. Most framing nailers shoot a wide range of different size nails, from 2" to 3 1/2" nails (6d to16d). Not only can these guns save time in framing a house but they can also save wear and tear on a framers wrist, elbow and shoulder.

Starting with the sill plate, the nail gun can be used to nail the floor joists to them. With the right nose on the safety, the joists can be toe nailed to the sill plate. The safety has a sawtooth configuration which allows it to dig into the work and not slide off during the toe nail shot. The nail gun can then be used to nail on the rim joists using 16d nails.

After the joists are nailed in, its time for the tongue and groove decking. To nail this down by hammer can be labor intensive. Time and labor can be saved by using a nail gun. The plywood or OSB can be tacked in place and one person can follow and nail off all the decking (using 8d nails).

When it comes to walls an air powered nailer can really be put to the task. A framing contractor may want to utilize two guns in this situation. Nail guns also come in handy when nailing the door and window headers together. A header for an opening as small as 36 inches can have as many as two dozen nails. A house can have 20 or more headers that size or larger. That can be a lot of 16d nails to drive by hand, not to mention the time it would take.

If the walls are to be sheathed with plywood, nail guns can cut your time down here too. Just like the plywood on the deck, time and labor can be saved using a nail gun.

Even though walls may be framed a little quicker using nail guns, there are still carpenters and contractors who still would rather frame walls by hand nailing. The reasoning behind this is they feel the joint between the plate and the stud ends can be drawn up tighter than with a gun. In some instances this is true.

When it comes to ceiling joists and rafters, hand nailing may be the preferred framing method. Ceiling joists and rafters involve a lot of toe nailing to fasten them to the top plate. Some carpenters feel it is easier to draw joists and rafters tighter to the plate and to the line nailing by hand. Using a nail gun could be awkward working at that height (two story) and dragging a hose around the framing could be a challenge. The hose could be a trip hazzard. Nailing the rafters to the ridge board is easier with a nail gun, especially if it involves nailing overhead, but there is still the hose to contend with.

Like the plywood on the deck and walls, nailing the plywood off on the roof is quicker with a nail gun. It can be done just like the deck. Tack it down and then have one man nail off the rest with the nail gun.

Nail guns aren't the answer for every homebuilding task,but they definitely have their place on the job. They can save time, labor and wear and tear on the body on certain parts of the process.

Mike Merisko (c) 2007

www.sawkerfs.com

Installing An Exterior Door

2007-02-20T17:53:00.000-08:00

Installing an exterior door is one of the easiest of all door installations. Whether the door is installed in new construction or in a replacement situation, there are a few factors that make this an easy task.

The biggest reason this is a simple operation is that these doors come prehung. What this means is the door is already hung in its jamb. The hinges are mortised into the door and jamb and screwed in place. The door is held in position by the hinge pins, leaving the perfect reveal around the door and the jambs top and sides. The holes are also bored for the lockset and if necessary, for the deadbolt too. Exterior doors come in wood, fiberglass, and the most popular, steel. The two sizes are normaly used for exterior doors are 32" and 36". With the sizes of todays furniture and appliances the smart choice is the 36" door. The standard height for a door is 6'8" but taller ones can be special ordered.

The exterior trim comes nailed to the jamb. This trim, called brickmoulding, is mitred and already installed, saving the installer(s) another step. These doors also have an aluminum threshold already attached to the legs of the jambs. All these things make the door and jamb one cohesive unit.

The standard jamb size is 4 and 1/2 inches wide. With the demand for a higher insulation R value in exterior walls, 2x6 framing is being used more frequently. Jambs to fit these walls, 6 1/2 inches, are becoming more common. Jamb widths can be made to order for whatever a projects needs are and would cost more.

To install an exterior door, first check to see if the rough opening is correct. The width of the opening should be 2" wider than the door itself (38" for a 36" door, 34" for a 32" door). For a rough opening height 83" will suffice for most door manufacturers. Also check to see if the framing and floor is reasonably plumb.

Door installation is easier with 2 people but can be done alone. Put the door in the opening from the outside. If you are working alone, tack the door to the wall through the brickmoulding, not driving the nails home. I like to use galvenized ring shank splitless nails that are used for cedar siding. They don't split the wood and the smaller heads are not as obvious to the eye. The ring shank feature gives them great holding power.

With the door tacked in the opening, go to the inside of the door and check the reveals around the door. There should be about an eighth of an inch all around the door. Shim the jambs of the door so the reveals are right. Check the door jamb on the hinge side for plumb. If it is not plumb, then the floor is out of level. One jamb leg or the other will need to be shimmed so the threshold is level. Now readjust the reveals by moving the door and jambs sideways in the opening to a point where the reveals are right. Once the door and jamb are in position, shim the jamb at each hinge and at the strike, top and bottom on the strike side. Nail the shims in place by nailing through the jamb, through the shims and into the framing. Check the door swing to see if it opens and closes properly. If all is well, go outside and nail through the brickmould using the splitless nails to nail the door frame to the house.

Most door manufacturers provide long screws that replace some of the shorter screws in the hinges on the jamb. The top hinge is the most important place to use one or two of these screws.
These screws go through the jamb and into the framing and keep the door from sagging over time.

Most doors come with an adjustable threshold. This may have to be adjusted up or down to create an airtight seal.

With the door securely in the opening, it is ready for door hardware installation.

Mike Merisko (c) 2007

www.sawkerfs.com

Rafters - The Three Most Common Types

2007-01-28T14:12:00.000-08:00

For any carpenter in residential construction that cuts roofs for a living, day in and day out, there are three types of rafters that he will constantly see. These are the common rafter, the hip/valley rafter, and the jack rafter.

The common rafter is the main rafter in any roof. The common rafter sits on top of the wall, its length meets the ridgeboard at the center of the building, making up half the span. The best example of this type of rafter is the gable roof. The gable roof is made up of nothing but common rafters. A gable roof is the easiest roof to cut and frame of any other type of roof. All common rafters are the same length from the plumb cut to the birdsmouth, and usually all have the same length tail.

The second most framed roof is the hip roof. The hip roof uses all three types of rafters mentioned here. The hip roof has no gable end to frame, but instead, has a roof that slopes to all 4 sides of the house. The main element in a hip roof is the common rafter. The amount of common rafters in a hip roof varies with the length and width of the building. For example, if a building has four equal sides (20x20, 24x24, etc.) the hip roof would resemble a pyramid and has four common rafters, one on each wall. The longer the length of the building the more common rafters there will be and the longer the ridgeboard will be.

What makes a hip roof? The hip rafter. If a building is square or rectangular there will be four hip rafters. The birdsmouth of a hip rafter sits right on the corner of the building. Its length slopes up at a 45 degree angle to where two commons meet the ridgeboard and make a 90 degree angle. The size of a hip rafter is determined by the size of the common rafter. If the common rafter is a 2x8, rule of thumb and most building codes call for the hip to be the next size up, in this case a 2x10.

A valley rafter has the same characteristics as a hip rafter except instead of originating at an outside corner, its birdsmouth sits where two walls create an inside corner. This situation is created when roofs run perpendicular to one another. These roofs slope to the valley rafter which bisects these roofs at a 45 degree angle.

Where there are hip or valley rafters, there are jack rafters. Jack rafters complete the framing on a hip roof from the hip to the top plate, starting a the common rafter down to the top plate or tail of the hip rafter. The tails of the jack rafter are cut the same as a common rafter. The plumb cut is the same pitch as a common rafter but cut at a 45 degree angle (compound angle) to match up with the angle of the hip.

With valley rafters, jack rafters usually start at a ridge and terminate at the valley. The cut at the ridge is a normal plumb cut. The cut at the valley is a plumb cut but the long point is at the bottom of the rafter and cut at a 45 degree angle (compound angle) to match the valley angle.

Mike Merisko (C) 2007

www.sawkerfs.com

Building By The Square Foot

2007-01-15T17:34:00.000-08:00

How much material is it going to take to do the job? What is the labor cost for the project? These are questions a contractor asks himself when bidding a job. In most cases a contractor will use the square foot method to determine the answer to those questions.

This method of take off is particularly handy in figuring sheet good type materials such as wall sheathing, plywood decking, roof sheathing and drywall. To find the square footage for one of these areas, multiply the height or width times(x) the length. For example if you have an eight foot high wall by 40 feet long the square footage for the wall would be 320 square feet. Most sheet goods are 4 feet by 8 feet or 32 square feet. The square footage of the wall is divided by 32. It will take 10 sheets of plywood or insulated sheathing to cover this wall.

This same method can be used to figure the plywood or OSB for the house deck and roof. To figure the deck simply multiply the width of the deck by the length to get the square footage and divide by 32. Figuring the square footage of a roof is similar but with a twist. For the roof multiply the length of the rafters by the length of the roof. Take the result times 2 for the total square footage for both sides of a gable roof, then divide by 32 to get the amount of plywood to sheet the roof. The square footage of a hip roof is figured the same way.

Drywall is also figured by the square foot. This can be an involved process. It can be broken down into two parts. First the square footage for the ceilings can be figured. Like the deck this is figured length times width. Then the lineal feet of all the walls is taken times the height. Interior walls will be added in twice because they have drywall on both sides. Labor to hang, tape, and paint the drywall is also figured this way.

Besides drywall and painting, many other labor costs are figured by the square foot. Roofing and siding are figured by the square. A square is 100 square feet. For example if a roof is 1200 square feet, it will take 12 squares of shingles to cover it. The same unit of measurement goes for vinyl, wood, alumimnum, steel and cement sidings.

Carpentry makes use of this measurement also. The cost to frame a house is usually figured by the square foot. Costs to build a whole house are estimated this way to help people determine if a house or its house plans are affordable for them to build.

Flooring is also among one of those things that use the square foot method to figure labor and materials. This includes ceramic and quarry tiles, hardwood, laminate, and vinyl flooring, and carpeting. Most contractors and installers use a price per square foot for their labor when calculating their costs for installation.

This information will help you understand contractor estimates and help you do your own calculations for projects.

Mike Merisko(c) 2007

www.sawkerfs.com

Vinyl Siding: The Misunderstood Finish

2007-01-03T18:31:00.000-08:00

For the last 20 years vinyl siding has been the exterior finish of choice, ahead of wood, aluminum, and steel. Besides being virtually maintenance free, it is also chosen for its colors, style choices and durability.

Many of the myths about vinyl siding stem from its early years when cracking, fading, and buckling were part of its characteristics. Technology quickly caught up with these faults and made it a more viable product for an exterior finish.

Another false read that people may have gotten about vinyl siding is seeing a poor installation on a new or re-sided house. Installers not knowledgable or not following the manufacturers recommended installation instructions could produce a poor job making one think its typical of all vinyl siding jobs.

One of the most common mistakes made when installing vinyl siding is not allowing room for expansion. During warm weather a 12 foot panel can expand up to 1/2 inch. Because of this, the siding is installed 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch short of J-channels and corners depending on the temperature its installed in.

Another no-no is nailing the sidng tight to the wall. Vinyl siding has a slotted nailing strip along its top edge. When nailing the siding on, one must drive the nails as close to the center of the slot as possible and leave the nail heads no closer than an 1/8 inch away from the strip. This will allow the siding panel to slide left to right and expand without buckling.

Another complaint is not being able to match and replace a damaged panel. If one installs or has installed a reputable brand name vinyl siding chances are it will be available should the need arise. After installation its a good idea to keep a small piece of the siding and to write the color and brand name on the back with permanent marker.

Whether installing or having vinyl siding installed, do your homework. Research some of the different makers of vinyl siding and their products they have available. If you are installing the siding yourself, follow the manufacturers installation instructions. If you hire a contractor to do the job, ask for addresses of jobs he's done so you can see his work.

Mike Merisko (c) 2007

www.sawkerfs.com

Siding Decision

2006-12-12T20:34:00.000-08:00

When I built my house 18 years ago I had to have the traditional wood
(cedar) siding. After a couple of years, the color began to fade.
After about 5 years in the weather (northern Illinois), some pieces
developed cracks and boards shrunk creating gaps at joints.

After an extensive paint and caulk job it looked like new again.

I'm facing the same situation again, only this time I'm tearing off
the wood siding and installing vinyl. I've nearly finished putting up
vinyl soffit and aluminum fascia on my house, this summer it will be
the siding.

As far as replacing siding, if you install a name brand (certainteed,
wolverine, alcoa, reynolds to name a few) it should be available if
the need arises.

Like they say "vinyl is final".

Mike Merisko
www.sawkerfs.com

The Full Length Roof Framer: The Book

2006-10-10T18:43:00.000-07:00

There are many ways to get the information and numbers you need to cut a roof. Carpenters and homebuilders depend on a variety of resources to get that information. Among those items available to a roof cutter are rafter tables, trig calculators, construction calculators, how to books and computer programs.

I've used most of those options, and although they did the job, they do have their drawbacks. Calculators can malfunction or be dropped or crushed on the jobsite. Rafter tables are just that, with no back up information for that tough to cut roof. Computers must be used offsite for a print out to be used. If numbers where entered in wrong or conditions on site changed you still need an alternative resource. You could use a laptop, but few users want to subject them to the rigors of a construction site, and as with calculators, ther is the malfunction issue.

My choice for roof cutting information and rafter lengths is A. F. J. Riechers "The Full Length Roof Framer". Its a hardcover book small enough to put in your hip pocket or in a pouch in your nail apron. The information you need is always at your finger tips.

"The Full Length Roof Framer" has rafter tables in half inch increments, giving roof pitches from 1/2 in 12 to 24 in 12. It gives rafter lengths for spans up to fifty feet for common, hip, and valley rafters. There are 144 rafter tables and 2,400 common rafter lengths and 2,400 hip rafter lengths per pitch to 1/8 of an inch.

This book not only gives you all the rafter lengths you'll ever need, but it also guides you step by step through the roof cutting process, whether it be a gable roof or a hip roof. If you have never cut a roof before or only dabbled in roof cutting,
anyone with a working knowledge of a circular saw and a framing square can cut a roof with this book.

Some of the topics covered in "The Full Length Roof Framer" are, Laying out, Cuts for commom, hip, valley, and jack rafters, backing cuts, overhangs, ridges and even cuts on roof sheathing and shingles. Each table has an explanation on how to use it so you don't have to keep thumbing through the book for information. Also on that page is the difference in length for jack rafters for any centers (16,24,36,etc.) that might be used.

This book was copywritten by A. F. J. Riechers in 1917 and all the information in it is as relavent today as it was then. By keeping this book on the jobsite with you, you'll never be without the information you need to cut a roof.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

www.sawkerfs.com

Framing Window and Door Openings

2006-09-17T15:36:00.000-07:00

Framing exterior walls is one of the easier tasks in homebuilding. There are still steps that should be followed to make this a smooth and trouble free operation. There is more to framing a wall than nailing some studs to a plate and standing it up.

Assumming you have laid out your plates, pull the top plate back so it is approximately eight feet from the bottom plate. This gives you room to layout your stud material to frame the wall with. If there are windows or doors in the wall, layout the headers, sills and cripples in their corresponding locations.

Window and door openings should be framed first. There is a good reason to frame these details first. When framing window and door openings, nails are driven through the sides of studs into headers, cripples, and sills. If the wall studs were to be nailed in before the openings were framed there would not be enough room to swing a hammer or use a nail gun. Even if those openings fell on 16 inch centers it would still be a little tight to swing a hammer.

The order of nailing a window opening together is also important. We'll use a standard eight foot wall as an example. In our example all the headers are 2x12. The first step is to nail the header to the top plate. The header is cut to the width of the window plus three inches to allow for the 2x4 cripples. Next, studs are nailed to both ends of the header and to the top plate using 16 penny nails. Once those are nailed in, the cripples are then nailed in. These determine the height of the window. The cripples butt up to the bottom of the header and nailed to the inside of the studs. The 16 penny nails must be put in at an angle to keep them from coming through the stud and to keep someone from catching their hand or clothing on the sharp points. The sill is then nailed to the bottoms of the cripples. The window framing is completed by adding cripple studs beneath the sill on the stud layout.

To frame a door opening the same procedure is followed except their is no sill. Studs are nailed to each end of the header and then a measurement is taken from the bottom of the header to the bottom plate. This will be the length of your cripples. These are nailed in just like the window cripples. Later on in the construction of the house and before the exterior doors are installed, the bottom plate is cut out.

Once all the openings are framed, all the wall studs can be nailed in. Make sure to follow the layout and nail everything on the right side of the line which will be indicated by an "X". Anything nailed to the wrong side of the line can be pretty obvious to the trained eye. You don't want to find this out when you are sheeting the wall.

Follow these basic rules to framing a wall and the job will go smoothly and hopefully aggravation free.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Raising Walls

2006-09-02T21:13:00.000-07:00

You've just taken some plywood, 2x4 studs, 2x12 header material and some house wrap and transformed them into a wall. Its time to take the fruits of your labor and raise that wall off the deck. Having the right steps in place and making the right moves will make this task go smoothly and safely.

There are a couple of procedures that are done during the framing of the wall that play an important part in raising it. Before an exterior wall is framed, a chalk line is snapped on the deck. If it is a 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, this line will be 4 inches off the edge of the deck. After the wall is framed and before any wall sheathing is nailed to it, the edge of the bottom plate is brought to the line. The end of the wall is brought to the edge of the deck. Once the frame is put in place, it is toe nailed with 8d nails on the inside of the bottom plate. Not only do these hold the wall in place when squaring up the wall, but also keep the wall on the line when raising it.

Once the wall is sheathed with plywood, insulation board, foam board and covered with house wrap you are ready to raise it. In preperation to lift the wall one must be able to get their hands under the top plate. Using a straight claw hammer or a prybar under the top plate, lift the wall high enough to slip a 2x4 flat under it. This inch and a half space gives you enough room for your hands.

If your raising a second story wall it is a good idea to nail stopping blocks to the rim joists. One of the last things you want is the wall being pushed off the edge of the deck. These are scrap pieces of lumber nailed the rim joist with 16d nails. Ideally these should be 16 to 18 inches long and nailed the full width of the joist with 4 16d nails. The balance of the board will stick up above the deck. Put these blocks at each end of the wall. On longer walls you may want to add one to the middle.

Before raising the wall, have all of your bracing material on hand. On a windy day you will want to brace the wall in place as soon as possible. Have enough braces (2x4's) to have them nailed on about every 10 feet. You will need blocks to nail to the deck to anchor the braces. These need to be about 20" long and get nailed to the deck through the plywood and into the floor joists with 16d nails. The nails need to go into the joists or ther is the risk of the bracing failing in the case of high winds.

Bracing on the ends of the walls can be nailed on before it is raised. Nail one end of a 2x4 (wall stud) about one third of the way down from the top plate, again using 16d nails. Start a nail at the other end of the 2x4 so when the wall is stood up, all one has to do is drive the nail into the rim joist to brace the end of the wall.

With all materials and safeguards in place you can now raise the wall. A good rule of thumb for raising a wall is a set of hands every 8 to 10 feet. This gives everyone a comfortable weight to lift. To save your back, use your legs in the lifting process as much as possible.

Once the wall is raised, nail off the end braces to the rim joists. Next, nail the braces to a stud or window opening about a third of the way down from the top plate, about every 8 to 10 feet apart. Next, nail the blocks to the deck alongside the braces that were just nailed the the wall, being sure to catch the floor joists with the nails. With the wall as close to plumb as possible, nail off the anchor end of the brace to the block on the deck. It is important to use 16d nails for all of these steps.

After the wall is raised and braced, the final step is to nail the bottom plate of the wall to the deck. Push or pull the wall to the chalk line that was snapped on the deck. The 8d toe nails and the stopping blocks should have kept the wall very close to this line. Once the plate is brought to the line, nail it off with 16d nails, being sure to hit either the rim joist or a floor joist. You can now walk away and start another wall.

Remember, homebuilding can be a dangerous and risky occupation or activity. Always execise caution and saftey in all aspects of the construction process.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding and Framing Layout

2006-08-26T21:44:00.000-07:00

When framing a house it helps to plan ahead for the layout of the framing members. When laying out, how you start will effect every phase of the project and dictate how you finish.

When starting construction on a new home the first layout would be for the floor joists. Before I even put a pencil to the sill plates to mark centers for the joists, I look at the roof plan. I let the type of roof the house has dictate what my layout is going to be.

The simplest layout would be for a home with a gable roof. If this is the case, then the layout of sixteen inch centers for the floor joists would simply start from the corner of the building. On the gable ends of the house, the layout would be started from the center of the building. The reason for this will be explained later.

When the roof is a hip roof, the layout for my first floor joist will be where the first common rafter winds up on the top plate. If the first common rafter is 11'9" to its center then that is where my layout for my joists will start. As with a gable roof, the layout on the end of the building will start from the middle. There is only one common rafter on the end of the house
and it will be in the center of the wall.

Now that you have laid out your floor joists, this will be the layout for all other framing components. After the plywood has been put on the floor joists, the layout for the exterior walls will follow the floor joist layout. Any interior bearing walls will also follow this layout.

After the walls have been framed and raised, the next phase of construction would be ceiling joists (if its a ranch style home) or second floor joists (if its a two story home). The layout for these would fall right on top of the studs in the walls. In the case of the ceiling joists, these would be nailed on the top plate to the side of the studs and the rafters would be nailed to the plate over the studs.

This method of framing is called "stacking". All framing members are stacked on top of each other to transfer the loads to the foundation and footings.

When framing the gable end of a roof, it is also laid out from the center. This puts a stud right under the ridge to give it support. All the walls below it are laid out from center also, so this support reaches all the way to the foundation wall.

Another reason for stacking the framing members is to create a chase or bay for mechanicals to go through. This makes it easier for the plumbers, electricians, and heating and AC trades to do their job. By using this method in a two story home, it creates a 14 1/2" space between framing members from the roof to the basement.

Stacking framing members in this method not only transfers the weight of the building to the foundation, but also makes for a structurely sound building. It also keeps the other trades cutting up of framing members to a minimum.

Plan ahead and keep it simple.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

www.sawkerfs .com

Garage Door Rough Openings

2006-08-25T20:36:00.000-07:00

One of the most confusing aspects of homebuilding can be the
rough opening for an overhead garage door. It is one of the
most frequent questions I am asked.

The rough opening for a garage door, simply put, is the
actual size of the door itself. For example, if the garage
door is a 7'0" x 16'0", then that is the size the rough
opening should be framed to. This is also what the opening
in the foundation should be. The studs and cripples will
then stop right at the edge of the foundation.

The foundation usually drops 8" to allow the concrete floor
to be poured over the top of it. This has to be accounted
for when figuring the length of the cripples to get the
right heighth of the overhead door header. Normally the
floor is poured 3" below the top of the foundation wall. If
the overhead door is 7' then 4 and 1/2" is subtracted from
that heighth. This is the 3" drop and 1 1/2" for the bottom
plate. Your total cripple lenght would be 6' 7 1/2".

Once the floor is poured, the door jambs can be installed.
The width of these jamb pieces vary with the size of the
wall and what the wall is finished with (brick, siding,
dryvit, etc). The header piece is installed first, then the
two side pieces. These go from the header to the finished
concrete floor. Once the jambs are in the door can be
installed. With the door installed the door stops are then
put on either with or without weatherstripping.

If you know the door size of your overhead door, you know
the rough opening. From there its determining where to start
and stop your framing.

Rough Openings For Doors

2006-08-25T20:35:00.000-07:00

One of the most important parts of framing walls is getting
the rough openings right. Items that determine what the
heighth of your opening will be are floor finishes and the
use of underlayment. Door widths will stay constant with the
size of a standard door.

In new construction most doors are hung after the floors are
installed. This allows flooring contractors (tile, hardwood,
vinyl, laminate) to lay their flooring products without
making tricky cuts around door jambs. It also makes for a
neat and clean door installation. Exceptions to this are
carpeted floors. Doors are hung before the carpeting is
laid. When doors are hung in carpeted areas, its a good idea
to shim them up 1/2", putting a shim under each jamb leg.
This eliminates the need to cut the doors down after the
carpet is installed.

For a 6' 8" high door (80 inches) I like to frame my rough
opening heighth at 82 3/4". This allows room for all the
situations mentioned above. If your header material is a
double 2x12, holding it to the top plate will give you that
heighth.

Rough openings for door widths are pretty much standard. The
rough opening width is 2 inches wider than the door itself.
this allows room for the door jambs which are usually 3/4"
thick. This gives you approximately 1/2" of play and shim
room when installing a prehung door. For a 36" door (3' 0")
the rough openig width would be 38". Here are the most
common door sizes and their rough openings.

Door Size Rough Opening Size

2' 0" x 6'8" -26" x 82 3/4"
2' 2" x 6'8" -28" x 82 3/4"
2' 4" x 6'8" -30" x 82 3/4"
2' 6" x 6'8" -32" x 82 3/4"
2' 8" x 6'8" -34" x 82 3/4"
2' 10"x 6'8" -36" x 82 3/4"
3' 0" x 6'8" -38" x 82 3/4"

To figure the rough opening for double doors or french
doors, take the door size times 2 and add 2". The most
common sizes for exterior doors are the 2'8" and the 3'0"
doors. The 2'8" is usually used for the back door and the
access door from the garage. That size door for exterior use
is being used less these days because of the size of
appliances and furniture. Exterior doors with sidelights and
sliding patio doors rough openings vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. These should be verified and gotten from the
supplier.

Getting the rough openings right the first time keeps the
sawzall in its carrying case and having to change the
opening after the walls are drywalled and painted.

To learn more about installing doors, check the archives of
this blog or go to www.sawkerfs.com

www.sawkerfs.com

Choosing the Right House Plan

2006-08-25T20:32:00.000-07:00

Everybody would like to live in a mansion or a sprawling ranch but there are many factors to consider when choosing a house plan. There are also a few pitfalls that can be avoided by doing your homework and making the right choices.

Before you commit to buying a stock or custom house plan, you should know how much of a house you can afford to build. A good place to get this information would be the bank that you might use to get your loan from.

Once you know what your budget is, you can determine how much house you can afford and pick a house plan that fits that budget. One way to accomplish this is to call several homebuilding contractors in your area. Ask them what the building costs per square foot are. Not all contractors are willing to volunteer this information, but you will find enough of them that are willing to help at the prospect of gaining a customer.

With this information you will be able to determine the square footage of a house plan you can afford. If your budget is $200,000 and the cost per square foot is $100, then a 2,000 square foot home is in your budget($200,000/$100= 2,000).

Another consideration is the size of the lot you intend on building your home. You don't want to invest in a blueprint for a house that won't fit on your lot. Check with your municipality or county on the distances you must have between the building and the lot lines. Most have rules on how much backyard you must have and how much your house must be set back from the street or building line.

Some towns and subdivisions also have what are called covenants. These are rules that dictate what you can and cannot build. Some of these covenants might include the minimum square footage house you can build, brick or frame construction, minimum roof pitch, and types of building materials you are allowed to use.

These are some of the important things you must consider. Building a new home the biggest investment you'll ever make. Doing a little homework will keep you from getting an unwanted surprise and wasting time and money on a plan you can't use.

(c) 2005 Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Choosing Finish Materials When Building Your Own Home

2006-08-25T20:29:00.000-07:00

When building your own home, certain building materials must be chosen and ordered well in
advance of when they will be used. This is mainly due to how long the delivery time
is once the order is made. By ordering these materials at the proper time you ensure
that they will be on the job when they are needed.

Some of the materials that need to be ordered with plenty of lead time include windows,
plumbing fixtures, roofing, siding, electrical fixtures, brick, flooring, interior trim and
appliances.

Windows and certain plumbing fixtures should be ordered about the time the foundation is
poured. Windows can take 3 to 6 weeks to get so order them accordingly. Ideally you'd like
these ready for delivery once the roof is framed and covered with sheathing so they can be
installed while the carpenter contractor is still there.

Plumbing fixtures such as bathtubs and shower stalls get put in place on the rough. Two to
three weeks should be plenty of time to make this available for your plumber.

Roofing should also be ordered even if it is a stock item. Make sure the color and style you
want is available so there are no surprises. If it needs to be ordered it gives your supplier
time to order it for you. Once the plywood is on the roof you'll want to shingle it as soon
as possible. This item should also be considered about the time the foundation is poured.

Siding and Brick should be considered once the rough framing is completed. This gives
the other trades a chance to run electric, plumbing, or vents out exterior walls. Once that
is done these exterior finishes should be at your disposal.

Electrical fixtures should be ordered once the rough is finished. If ordering these from an
electrical supply house, specialty fixtures could take as much as six weeks.

Flooring is another item that should be considered once the rough carpentry is finished.
You'll want to make sure items such as carpeting, ceramic or quarry tile, laminate, hardwood,
or vinyl flooring is available when you need them.

Interior trim amd millwork should be measured up for and ordered after the drywall is up.
While the taping and painting is being done, your order can be run. Once the painting is done
your order should be ready for delivery. Give this two to three weeks lead time.

Once the painting is done, ordering appliances is in order. I know a guy who ordered his
refrigerator for when the drywall was done so his favorite beverage was on hand as he worked
on his new home.

Having all the necessary materials on hand is important to keep your homebuilding project
moving smoothly. If your trying to meet a deadline this becomes even more important. If your
paying on a construction loan, ordering materials with plenty of lead time can save you money.

(c) 2006 Mike Merisko
www.sawkerfs.com

Doing a Siding Takeoff

2006-08-25T20:28:00.000-07:00

For me one of the easiest material takeoffs to do from a
houseplan is for siding. It doesn't matter whether it's
T-11,vinyl,cedar or cement board siding. Just like roofing,
these materials can be figured by the square foot.

I use the elevation plan of the house when doing the
takeoff. These are usually drawn to 1/8" or 1/4" scale. To
find the square footage for the side of a house, I multiply
the width by the height. For example if the side of a house
with a hip roof is 25' wide and 8' high the square footage
is 200 square feet (sq. ft.).

If the side of the house has a gable figure it by itself. To
figure the square footage for a gable end, muliply the width
times the height and divide by two. Using our example above
for a 25' wide house, lets say that from the top of the wall
to the top of the ridge is 8'. Using our formula for
figuring gables, the square footage would be 100 sq. ft.
(25x8 divided by 2=100). Add this to the 200 sq. ft. we
figured for our wall and the total is 300 sq. ft. Do this
for all four sides of the house to give you the total amount
of square feet.

When ordering siding it is usually ordered by the square.
One square is equal to 100 square feet. The side of the
house in our example had 300 sq. ft. or 3 squares.

The exception to this would be if sheet goods were being
used. In this case divide the square footage by the square
footage of the sheet. This would be 32 sq. ft. for a 4x8
sheet. In our example of 300 sq. ft. it would take 10 sheets
to cover our wall.

When doing a take off for this task one should figure for
waste. There are a couple of ways to do this. One way is to
subtract the square footage of all the windows and doors and
add 10% for waste. The alternative to this method is to not
subtract the doors and windows and let that account for the
waste. Unless there is an unusual amount of windows and
doors this method work fine and is the one I prefer to use.

As your doing your takeoff dfrom the house plan, write
everything down. Write down front elevation and below it
write your figures for the square footage for that
elevation. Then do the right elevation and do the same. Make
your way around the house till you have all the sides of the
house figured. Add all the sides together and you'll have
the total square footage.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006

www.sawkerfs.com

Planning a Second Story Addition

2006-08-24T20:47:00.000-07:00

Planning is the key when taking on a project that involves removing your roof.

Before you plan your 2nd story, research what obstacles will need to be dealt with. Examples of items that need to be addressed are:

-Size of ceiling joists, can they support a 2nd story floor?

-Are mechanicals run over the top of existing ceiling joists?
(plumbing, electRic, HVAC)

-How much overhang is on existing roof and are there any
utilities fastened to it.

-Is the existing roof stick built(built on site) or a truss
roof(manufactured).

-Is the roof sheathing 1x boards or plywood?

-How many layers of shingles are there?

-Are there any Stacks or flues protruding through the roof
such as a fireplace chimney, furnace flue, or vent pipe.

These things need to be considered so the addition can be built as quickly as possible.

When starting the tearoff, the first thing that needs to be addressedis the soffit. Removing this first will free up the rafter ends when it comes time to remove them. Sometimes utilities like the phone and electrical lines are attached to the soffit. These should be moved by their respective utility company.

Now you can tearoff the roof. The easiest way to remove the shingles and sheathing is with a circular saw. It's best to use an old blade with a lesser amount off teeth because it will be trash when you are done.

When cutting the roof away, start at the ridgeboard and run the saw between the rafters all the way to the rafter tails. Repeat this cut every 32" from one end of the roof to the other. These pieces, assuming they are plywood, can be removed in 32"x 48" squares. There will still be some weight to these pieces but this will make them more managable. Working from the ridge, these squares are loosened with a sledgehammer. Once there is enough room, you can use a prybar to free them from the rafters. My favorite technique is to use a 6 to 8 foot 2x4. Slip it under the loosened piece and use an adjacent
rafter as a fulcrum. Push down on the 2x4 and up comes the plywood and shingles. This same procedure works with trusses also.

If the roof sheathing is planks, the cuts should be made 48" to 64"apart. If there are 2 or mre layers of shingles, you should be able to roll these sections down the rafters.

Once the roof sheathing is removed, the rest of the components canbe removed. If the soffit and fascia haven't been removed yet, thisis another opportunity to do so. Once that is gone the rafters can be removed. The rafters can be detached from the ridgeboard by using a sledgehammer or a sawzall. After they are loose from the ridge, they can be twisted off the top plate.

Trusses can be a little trickier. After the sheathing is removed,most of the truss work will have to be cut out. The only part left would be the bottom cord that holds up the drywall ceiling. Since most of these cords are 2x4's, larger 2x lumber will have to be sistered alongside for added support. As long as there are bearing walls below, this 2x lumber could be 2x10's, 2x12's or engineered lumber such as I-joists. Each situation is different and what is used is spect by an engineer or architect.

In most cases, the electric (conduit), plumbing and/or HVAC run over the top of the ceiling joists. Usually, the easiest way to deal with this, is to build a knee wall high enough for the new floor joists to clear these obstructions. This makes the second floor deck higher so it will make your stair run longer. Making sure you have room for the stairs in this instance is another consideration.

Once the deck is down, the walls, ceiling joists, and roof of your new addition can follow.

Whatever situation might you have, good planning will make this taskeasier and quicker. Time is of the essence when it comes to removing a roof. You want to protect the existing structure and all of your valuable possesions that are left inside.

(c) 2005 Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Figuring Lumber Amounts for Homebuilding

2006-08-24T20:45:00.000-07:00

Getting the right amount of lumber for your homebuilding project can be very important. Ordering to much lumber can add unnecessary costs to your project. Not ordering enough lumber or missing a component can bring your project to a screeching halt.

When I do a lumber takeoff, I do it in the order that it would be built. I start with the sill plates followed by the floor joists, tongue and groove plywood, and wall lumber (studs, plates, sheathing). If its a two story home, the next item would be the second floor floor joists followed by the second story walls (interior and exterior), then the ceiling joists, rafters and roof sheathing. If the house is a ranch, you would go from walls to ceiling joist, rafters and roof sheathing. That's the bulk of your lumber list but there are other incidentals that need to be added to your list. These items include:

Stair material (if carpenter built)
Soffit and fascia (plywood and 1x, 2x etc.)
Construction adhesive
Housewrap (Tyvek, Typar)
Nails (8d, 16d coated sinkers, cap nails)
Bridging (for floor joists)
Header material (2x12's, 2x10's, whatever is spec'd)

There are three methods that I use to figure a lumber list when building a new home. The first one that I use is for figuring my wall studs. I figure the total lineal feet of wall for the exterior walls. If its 150' then I order 150 studs. I do the same for the interior walls and for the second floor walls if there is one. This takes care of cripples for doors and windows and extra studs it takes to frame inside and outside corners. I always add 10% for wall bracing. Also, by getting the lineal feet of wall you have just figured what is needed for top and bottom plates. Take that lineal footage total times 3 and you have the total feet of plate you need for your walls.

To figure the amount of floor joists needed, I use a different method. If the length of a building is 32', I take that length times 4 and divide it by 3 and add 1. The total amount of joists needed in this example is 25 pieces. I use this same method to figure ceiling joists and rafters.

Sheet goods like plywood and foam sheathing are figured by using the square footage formula
length x width /32 = number of pieces of plywood.

There may be other ways to figure these things, but these simple methods always worked for me.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com

Two Story Homes: More Bang For Your Buck

2006-08-24T20:42:00.000-07:00

If you are going to build your own home and want to get more for
your money, consider a two story home. There are major parts of
the construction process that can save you money over building a
ranch style home. The three major areas to cut costs are
excavation, the foundation, and the roof.

When excavating for a ranch style home, you are digging a hole
for living space all on one floor. Let's say the square footage
of this ranch is 2,000 sq. ft. If this house has a full basement
that's a lot of dirt to be removed to accomodate a foundation. A
two story home such as a Colonial or Georgian style with the same
square footage will require half as much excavation. These style
of homes usually have close to equal the amount of square feet on
both floors. For this phase of construction a single story home
requires twice the labor and twice the material to be removed for
the foundation. After backfilling the foundation, any extra dirt
that can't be spread about the lot, has to be hauled away. This
could be a sizable burden to your construction budget.

The foundation is another place to save money on your
construction costs. Using the same 2000 sq. ft. house as an
example, footings and foundation walls must be poured to support
2000 sq. ft. of deck for the living space. A two story would only
require enough walls and footings for a 1000 sq.ft. as the second
floor would be stacked on top of the first floor and utilizing
the same foundation walls. If both style homes have a full
basement its easy to see that the ranch is going to cost double
to pour a concrete floor. this cost is usually figured by the
square foot.

The third major cost saving phase is the roof system. A two story
home has half the roof. This means cutting the amount of lumber
in half. If the rafters for this structure are 2x10 or 2x12, this
can be quite a savings. Add in for the longer lumber lengths
needed for steeper pitched roofs like a 10/12 or 12/12 and the
savings become even more substantial. Also, when building this
type of home, only half as much plywood is needed to cover our
framing. With the rising costs of lumber, this is another good
reason to go with a two story home. The roofing materials used
is also affected. Again. only half the materials are needed to do
the job. This is another task that is figured by the square foot.

There are many ways to save money when building your own home.
These three parts of constructing a home are the major ways to
save. If you want more bang for your buck, consider a two story
home.

(c) Mike Merisko 2006 www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Laying Tongue and Groove Plywood

2006-08-24T20:39:00.000-07:00

You have just finished framing the first floor deck for a brand new
home and your ready to start putting down the 3/4" tongue and
groove plywood. If you framed it well and got your 16" centers
laid out right, the process should go smooth as silk. The key to
success is in the framing of the joists.

The first step in laying plywood over the floor joists is to snap
a chalk line. This gives you a straight line to follow. I always
snap this line at 48 1/4" in off the edge of the rim joist. This
ensures that in the course of installation the plywood (which is
48" wide) will not hang over the edge of the rim joist. It
doesn't matter whether you start in the front or back of the
house.
For best results, start where you have the longest run without a
jog in or out in the foundation.

After you have snapped your line, determine which joist the first
sheet of plywood will break. If the joists where laid out 16"
o.c. (on center) from the end of the building, the edge of the
plywood would split the joist at 8 feet. Sometimes the roof
layout determines the floor joist layout. This is usually the
case when the roof is a hip roof. In this instance start with the
joist that will allow the plywood to cover all the joists, even
if it hangs over the edge of the first joist. This will be cut
off later.

After you have determined where to start, apply construction
adhesive to the top edge of the joists. Apply no more than 48"
the width of the plywood. Lay the first sheet in the glue with
the groove edge on the chalk line. Holding the sheet to the line,
nail the leading edge of the plywood to the rim joist so it
splits the joist. You'll be covering 3/4 of an inch of the joist
with 3/4" exposed. Still holding the plywood to the chalk line,
put a nail in the rim joist at the first joist.
Now put nails in the rim joist where the floor joists are nailed
into it. When nailing off the field these nails can be used as a
guide to find the joists.

Now the groove edge can be nailed. On the leading edge, move the
joist so the edge of the plywood splits the joist. Once you have
the joist where you want it, nail the plywood to it. Now taking
your tape measure, hook the leading edge of the joist you just
nailed, and pull it along the edge of the plywood. Mark 16"
centers on the plywood and pull the leading edge of the joists to
this mark and nail them. This will help keep the joists in line
and will help make sure future course of plywood break on 16"
centers no matter which joist you start with.

Glue up the joists for the next sheet. Butt the next sheet to the
one previously installed, making sure to hold it to the chalk
line and nail the groove edge corner. Nail it to the rim joist
just like the first sheet. Once again move the joist so the
plywood splits it. Hook that joist with your tape, mark centers
and move the joists to the lines. Keep laying the plywood in this
fashion to the other end of the building.

Your now ready for the next course of plywood. If I've started
with a full 96" sheet on my first course, I like to start my
second row with a 48" piece. This works great if the building
length is in increments of 4 feet (24',28',32',36' etc.). This
isn't always the case. If the building is an odd length you can
usually use your ending cutoff to start the next course. Stagger
the joints a minimum of 32" apart.

Start the next course by gluing the joists. Do not apply the glue
more than 4' beyond the first course of plywood. Stand the sheet
on its tongue edge next to the groove edge of the sheet you are
standing on. Make sure its butt edge is lined up on the joist it
is breaking on and let it fall into the glue. As it hits the
glued up joists, step on it and try to pull it in with your foot.
Only under the right conditions will the tongue go completely
into the groove. Sometimes the sheet can be jumped into the
groove. This involves standing on the sheet and jump with force
towards the the sheets in the previous row. In most cases it
takes a sledgehammer and a 4' to 6' 2x4 beater block to persuade
the sheets together. The block keeps the groove edge from getting
damaged by the sledge. This is a two person operation. One stands
on the tongue edge of the plywood to guide the sheet into the
groove while the swings the sledgehammer. This will be the
process for the rest of the installation.

Once the piece is in place, nail off the tongue edge, making sure
the leading edge is breaking on a joist. Move the joist so the
groove edge breaks on the joist. Pull 16" centers from that
joist, mark the plywood, move the joists if necessary, and nail
them off.

To keep the joists at the ends of the building straight, do not
glue or nail them. Ideally we'd like the plywood to be hanging
over the ends. After all the plywood is in place, snap a line
from one corner to the other and cut this over hanging plywood
off. Move this joist to the cut edge to make it straight and nail
it off.

Tips:
-Field can be nailed as you go (recommended to set sheet in
glue)
or after all plywood is in place.
-do not glue more than 4' out from sheet. Keeps glue off your
tape
when you pull centers.
-When nailing groove edge, nail at least 2" from edge to keep
from
collapsing groove.
-Before installing plywood, check for damaged grooves and
tongues.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006
www.sawkerfs.com

Must Have Tools For Homebuilding

2006-08-24T20:37:00.000-07:00

There are many tools that you must have handy when building a house
but there are a few that get used often in the building process.

I'll start with the obvious. A hammer. In this day and age, many
builders use compressors and framing nailers. The hammer still has a
place on the jobsite. Most carpenters still use the hammer to frame
floor joists, walls, ceiling joists and rafters. The feeling is that
they can draw connections tighter with a hammer. I'm in favor of using
a hammer for framing and using a nail gun to nail off plywood on
decks, walls and roofs.

Another obvious tool is the circular saw. I like to have at least two
on the job. one for me to do laying out of plates and roof cutting and
one for the crew to cut headers, cripples and whatever else they might
need it for. I prefer a worm drive saw. Its a heavier saw but I like
to use that to my advantage when cutting. I also like the fact you can
see the blade cut the line. Others prefer what is called a sidewinder.
The blade is on the other side of the saw thus the name. A righthanded
user will ususally find himself leaning over the saw to see the blade
and follow the cut line. This is a lighter saw so it may fatigue the
user less than a worm drive.

Layout tools. These include pencil, speed square, framing square,
chalk line, dry line and tape measure. Obviously the pencil is a
companion to most of the other tools for making layout marks and
lines. The speed square is used primarily to square lumber and laying
out plates for wall, floor joist, ceiling joists, and rafters. It can
also be used for rafter cutting layout but I prefer a framing
square,which I feel is more accurate. The framing square is also used
to square up wider lumber like 2x10's and 2x12's. Pages can be written
on the many uses of a framing square. I've even heard stories of guys
being able to figure their paychecks with one. A chalk line is a
necessity and is one of the first tools used to start building a
house. Lines are snapped on top of foundation walls, on decks for wall
layout and for cut lines on plywood, OSB and wall sheathings. A dry
line is used to keep things straight. Its used to straighten tops of
walls, basement steel, and hip rafters among other things. Last but
not least is the tape measure, the most important of the layout tools.
It would be impossible to build a house without it.

There are also what I like to call lifting and persuading tools. A
handy tool to have on site is a prybar. On my jobs its primary
function was to lift a wall to put a 2x4 block under the top plate.
This is for finger room when it is time to lift the wall. The main
persuader on any job is the sledgehammer. Also called a trim hammer
for moving that heavy wall that last 1/8th of an inch to the line. I
also like to use it to tap a wall square before sheathing it. Another
necessary use for the sledgehammer is to tap tongue and groove plywood
decking together.

Don't forget the erasers. Sometimes we make mistakes. Thats why we
keep nail pullers (cats paw) and a sawzall or reciprecating saw on
hand. I prefer the sawzall. I like to cut the nails rather than pull
them. I feel its quicker and makes for a cleaner job.

Don't forget a 4 foot level. I almost did. This is considered a layout
tool. You'll need one to level interior walls to brace them off and to
install window and doors. Other than this thats almost all you'll need
it for except for an occasional check for plumb and level.

With the above mentioned tools, you've got what you need to build a
house.

(c)Mike Merisko 2006
www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Setting Basement Steel

2006-08-24T20:35:00.000-07:00

One of the first steps in the construction of a new home is
setting the steel beams and columns in the basement and/or crawl
space. This supports the floor joists and usually runs the length
of the house at mid span in most homes. Not only does this system
support the floor, but usually has the weight of bearing walls,
ceilings, second floors, second floor bearing walls and sometimes
roofs transfered down to it.

The first step is to install the sill plates on the foundation
wall. This gives you a place to nail 2x4 bracing to hold columns and
beams in place while you install them. Once set in place these
braces hold the steel till the floor joists are nailed in to take
their place.

Before I continue, a word of caution. Homebuilding can be a
dangerous activity. Care and safety are a must in all phases of
the construction process. Setting steel definitely falls into
this category. Beams can weigh anywhere from 100 to 400 pounds
depending on their size and length. Beams can be lifted into
place manually but I would recommend the use of a crane. Not only
can the beams be put in place safely, but it can also quicken the
process.

With the sill plates in place the steel can be set. One end of
the first beam typically starts in a beam pocket formed into the
top of the foundation wall. The other end sits on top of a lally
column. A typical column is 3 1/2" in diameter and filled with
concrete. It has a flange welded to the top with holes in it that
match holes in the bottom flange of the beam. The beam is lowered
onto the column and then bolted together.

To make this happen, I like to use four people. One to hold the
beam in the pocket, one to hold the column, one man on a ladder
to guide and bolt the beam onto the column and one man to nail
off bracing to sill plates. Braces (2x4's) are laid flat on the
bottom flange of the beam on both sides of the web and then
nailed to the sill plates on opposing walls.

The next beam is now ready to be set. With one person holding the
next column, the next beam is lowered onto the new column and the
previous column. Men on ladders guide it into place and bolt it
down. Again 2x4's are used to brace the beam to the outside
foundation walls. This procedure is repeated until you get to a
beam pocket at the other end of the building, or a column that
terminates at an opening.

To keep beams level and straight, I like to use a dry line from
beam pocket to beam pocket (this can also be done with a laser).
First I drive a nail in the sill plate corresponding with the
edge of the beam. Most beams run pocket to pocket. If this is the
case I'll drive a nail in the plate by that pocket at the same
dimension as the first nail, measured from a common reference
point, usually the front or back sill plate. I now have a
reference point to line up the edge of the beams with and result
in a straight installation.

Assuming the foundation and sill plates are level, this string
can be used to level the steel beams (again, a laser can be
used). After most beam installations a 2x plate is either bolted
or shot with a powder actuated tool to the top of the beam. This
is to bring it level with the sill plates and to provide nailing
for the floor joists. Using a 2x block as a gauge, lay it on the
top of the beam where it sits on a column. This simulates the
plate that will be installed later. Shim the column till the
block touches the bottom of the dry line. Repeat this for every
column. Columns are shimmed with steel plates of various
thicknesses. These shims are provided by the steel supplier.

The next step is to plumb the lally columns on their concrete
pads. Using a 4-foot level, the columns are tapped into plumb
with a sledge hammer. Make sure the steel shims remain under the
columns. After all columns are plumbed up, the concrete floor can
be poured. This holds the columns in place.

The next step is to frame the floor. Once the floor joists are
nailed in place all bracing can be removed. The joists are now
holding the steel in place.

Just like the foundation, setting the steel straight and level is
important to producing a quality home.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Installing Sill Plates

2006-08-24T20:33:00.000-07:00

When building a house, installing the sill plates correctly
will determine how straight and square the finished product
will be.

Hopefully the concrete contractor did his job and left you
with a reasonably straight and square foundation. A good
concrete contractor can make a framing contractors job of
building a house a piece of cake. Even if the foundation is
slightly out of square, a good framing contractor can adjust
his sill plates and correct the problem.

When laying out the sill plates, snap chalk lines on the
biggest square of the foundation. This will usually be the
main part of the house. After snapping the front or back and
one side, check for square. This is easily done by using
the 3-4-5 method. Measuring 3' from the corner on the side,
and 4' from the corner on the front or back. Make a pencil
mark on the chalk line at these dimensions. Measure the
distance between these two marks on the diagonal and if
perfectly square will equal 5'. If it is not square, adjust
the shortest of these two lines so that your measurement
equals 5'.

Once squared these lines can be used as a reference point to
square and keep paralell other sections of the houses
foundation, like a garage or sunroom. By using the biggest
square portion of the house, your work will be more
accurate.

After your chalklines are all snapped, your ready to lay the
sill sealer and sill plates. The sill sealer is put on top
of the foundation wall first. This material comes in two
forms. One is very similar to fiberglass wall insulation
except thinner and with the same kraft paper backing. The
other is a 1/4" foam similar to laminate flooring
underlayment. Both materials come in widths to accomadate
2x4 and 2x6 sill plates. I prefer the foam sill sealer for
its ease to work with and what I feel will keep drafts and
moisture from penetrating under the sill plate better. Both
sealers are installed butting up to the chalk line to the
inside of the foundation wall. Both are pushed down over
the anchor bolts till it pops through the sealer.

The exterior finish determines the placement of sill plates
on the foundation wall. If the exterior finish is siding,
the sill plates will finish flush with the outside of the
foundation wall. In this case I like to measure in the width
of my sill plate, 3 1/2" for a 2x4 and 5 1/2" for a 2x6. If
the exterior finish is brick, the sill plate will be 4 1/2"
from the outside edge of the foundation wall.

Holes must be drilled in the plates to install them over the
anchor bolts. These 2x plates are usually required to be
treated lumber to resist rot. To locate the bolt hole in the
2x, put the plate up against the anchor bolts. Using a speed
square or a combination square, put the square on the edge
of the 2x and against the anchor bolt. Hold your pencil
against the squares edge with the lead 1/4" away from the
blade of the square and draw a line. This will give you the
center of the 1/2" anchor bolt along the length of the 2x
plate. to get the center off the edge of the plate, measure
from the chalkline to the center of the bolt. This will give
you the location to drill the holes in the plate. Drill a
3/4" hole in the plate. This allows some wiggle room to drop
the plate over the anchor bolts which are not always
straight up and down.

Once the holes are drilled in the plate, bolt it down with a
washer and hex nut. Continue the process by butting the next
plate to the one just put down and locate the next set of
holes, putting the sill sealer down ahead of the plates. Toe
nail all joints where the plates butt one another.

This is an important step when building a new home. By
installing the sill plates straight and square, it gives a
solid reference to follow when framing the rest of the
house.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Simple Layout And Framing Of Walls

2006-08-23T22:07:00.000-07:00

Framing walls is known in construction as rough carpentry. This
has always seemed to me as a contradiction of terms. The framing
holds the skin (drywall, sheathing, siding) and has the buildings
life lines running through it (plumbing, electric, heating, A/C,
telephone, and cable). Like the skeleton is to a body, as are
framed walls to a house.

When laying out walls, care must be taken as to where they are
placed. Finishes that will be applied must be considered in the
mix. If a room is to finish 12' x 12' and the wall finish is 1/2"
drywall, then the rough (there's that word again) dimension
between walls must be 12'1" x12'1".

Wall stud placement must also be considered. They cannot be
placed just anywhere. To understand how important this placement
is, one must know the materials that are applied to the framing.
Most common building materials come in 4 x 8 sheets. These sheets
are usually applied with the 4' horizontal and the 8' vertical.
The most common layout for wall framing is 16" centers. When laid
out and framed correctly, the edge of the drywall or sheathing
will break on the center of the studs in 4' increments.

The first step to laying out a wall is to find 2 straight 2x4s
and cut them to the length of the wall. Your now ready for the
stud layout. If your building perpendicular to an existing wall,
lay the 2x4 plates next to each other and flush the ends. Hook
your tape measure on one of the plates and make your first mark
at 15 and 1/4". This will be the leading edge of your first stud.
This puts the center of the stud at 16". Continue marking the
rest of the wall studs in the same manner. The next one would be
at 31 and 1/4", then 47and1/4", then 63 and 1/4" and so on. This
puts the center of the studs at 32", 48", and 64". Most tape
measures have 16" centers highlighted in a color to make this
easier. Once you have your stud locations marked, use a square
(combination or speed) to draw a line across both plates. Put an
"X" to the right side of this line. This indicates where the stud
goes.

If there are doors, windows or wall intersections in the wall,
these get laid out first. Sixteen inch centers are then laid out.
Door and window openings can be moved so its stud or cripple stud
is on the 16 o.c. layout. This saves or eliminates a stud.

Framing follows the same rules. Frame wall intersections first,
then door and window openings. It can be tough to frame these
items if the wall studs are in the way.

Wall layout is a simple process and once you do it a couple times
you'll see just how easy it is. It will become even more clear
if you also install the drywall or sheathing also. It can be a
nightmare if the layout is wrong and the edges of the material
aren't breaking on the center of the studs.

A certain amount of care and precision must be taken to avoid not
having material breaking on the studs.

(c)2005 Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Installing Windows in New Construction

2006-08-23T22:05:00.000-07:00

Installing a window in a freshly framed opening is one of the more simple tasks in a construction project.

Most new construction windows have what is called a nailing fin. These are found on vinyl or aluminum clad windows. This nailing fin is either vinyl or metal and has nail holes every 4 to 6 inches and about 1 and 1/2 inches wide. Nailing fins take the place of brick moulding which can still be found on primed wooden windows.

Not only do these fins make installation easier, but also make a better seal against water and air infiltration. These windows can be flashed if desired but not deemed necessary. A window that does not have the benefit of a soffit or porch roof above it may need flashing or a drip edge above it.

When getting ready to install a window, make sure the sheathing is not hanging into the rough opening. This could cut down the size of the opening and not let the window go into the opening. Once this is done, measure the rough opening to make sure the it is big enough for the window. You don't want to lift a heavy window to an opening only to find it won't fit. Rough openings are usually 1" wider and 1/2" taller than the window unit. Rough openings are spect and provided by the window manufacturer.

Depending on the size of the window, you'll need 2 or 3 people to install a window. One or two outside and one inside.

Once you know the window fits, lift it to the opening from the outside. Set it on the sill and push it into the opening until the nail fins hit the wall. Make sure none of the fins folded themselves back into the opening especially the bottom one. The person on the inside then centers the window in the opening. Then using a level, checks it for plumb and level, and applies shims where needed. You may also want to check the window for square, although a window that's closed and in the locked position usually is. The window can now be nailed in. My preference is roofing nails but 8d nails or cap nails will do the job.

If it is a standard jamb (4 9/16) another thing to check is how far it runs past the rough framing. This should be 1/2 inch. You'll also want to make sure the window operates properly. Double hungs should slide up and down easily and casements should crank in and out without hanging up.

(C) 2005 Mike Merisko

www.sawkerfs.com

Framing a Gable Roof

2006-08-23T22:03:00.000-07:00

There are many styles of homes that are built with gable roofs. It is the simplest roof of all to frame. It is also the most common roof built for that reason alone.

All the rafters cut for a gable roof are all cut to the same length. The birdsmouth, which is the cutout that sits on the top plate, is located in the same place on all rafters. The overhang, if there is one, is also the same.

The ridge board, which is usually a 2x, runs the full length of the house. This can be cut ahead of time and have the rafter layout marked on it. The rafter layout usually matches the wall stud layout. This transfers the roof load down to the foundation.

Before any framing begins, some of the plywood that will be used for roof sheathing is laid across the ceiling joists the whole length of the building. This gives the carpentry crew something to comfortably stand and walk on during the construction of the roof. It's also a good idea to pass all the roof plywood up to the ceiling joists. This makes passing it up to the roof much easier.

Next, pass the ridge board(s) up and lay them on the plywood walkway, making sure the layout is going the right way and matches the wall layout. Now pass the rafters up. Lay them with the plumb cuts on the plywood and the tails on the top plate. If the house is a ranch, the rafers can be leaned against the wall between ceiling joists to keep them from sliding of the wall. Send up a couple of 2x4's for bracing and you are ready to frame.

Before the ridge board is even raised, nail two rafters to one side, nailing on the first one and the last one on the layout. The ridge can now be raised. Pull the ridge so the birdsmouths are tight to the wall and raise it high enough so the level cuts of the birdsmouths are flat on top of the wall. Once the rafters are in place tack them to the wall. Now nail two rafters on the other side of the building to the top plate. These will also be the first and last rafters on the layout and will mirror the ones you put up on the other side of the building. Raise or lower the ridge so the top of the plumb cuts on the rafters meet the top edge of the ridge. If the rafters where cut correctly,
the plumb cuts should fit snugly against the ridge with little or no gaps.

With the ridge in place, install a stud in the gable end from the ridge down to the top plate, using a level to plumb it up. Take one of the 2x4 braces and nail it near the top of the stud. Nail a block to the plywood walkway being sure to catch a couple ceiling joists. Now put the level on the 1 1/2" side of the stud and plumb it that way. When the stud is plumb, nail the 2x brace to the block. This will square up and position the roof where it needs to be. The rest of the rafters can now be installed, alternating from one side to the other, pulling the rafters tight to the wall and bringing the plumb cut to the top of the ridge. By alternating from one side to the other the ridge will stay straight. If one side is installed all at once, the weight will push on the ridge creating a bow. This will make it tough to straighten when the other side is put on.

After the roof is framed, collar ties, fascia boards, and overhangs are put on. With those items in place, the plywood can be put on. Frame in the gable ends and your ready for shingles.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006

www.sawkerfs.com

Building Headers

2006-08-23T22:00:00.000-07:00

One of the most important components in homebuilding
construction is the header. When framed in a wall, headers
span the spaces above doors and windows and bear the weight
of floors, ceilings and roofs above them. They are also used
in interior walls for doorways and where more open spaces
are desired between rooms.

Depending on the bearing load above an opening, headers can
be constructed of 2x4's on up to 2x14's or microlams. In a
standard 2x4 wall these elements are doubled up with a 1/2"
spacer between them and nailed together with 16d nails on
both sides. In homebuilding, the most common size headers
are usually 2x10 or 2x12.

Most headers for doors and windows are cut 3" longer than
the width of the rough opening. In a standard wall, a 2x10
or 2x12 header is usually nailed to the top plate. Next,
2x4's are nailed to the top plate and into the ends of the
header. Next two by (2x) cripples are nailed inside these
studs and under the header. These 2x4's are cut to the
height of the door or window. If it is a window, a 2x4 sill
is nailed to the bottoms of these cripples. The cripple is
then continued below the sill to the bottom plate. This
transfers the load from above the window to the floor and
onto the foundation.

For an example, lets say we are building a header in a 2x4
wall for a 36" wide rough opening. Take 2 pieces of header
material (2x10, 2x12 etc.) and cut them to 39". This allows
for the thickness of the 2x4 cripples(3"). Next cut a piece
of 1/2" plywood slightly less than the width and length of
the header. This is to keep it from hanging into the opening
and to keep it away from framing members. Sandwich the 1/2"
plywood spacer between the header material. Make sure to
crown the 2x's with the crown up. Before nailing the header
pieces together make sure the ends and bottom are flush.
Nail together with 16d nails, 3 nails top to bottom, 16
inches on center from one end to the other.

Rough openings are usually known well in advance of the jobs
start. Headers can be built before any framing even begins.
When building headers the use of a framing nailer can make
the task go faster and save wear and tear on ones arm.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

www.sawkerfs.com

How To Install A Prehung Door

2006-08-23T20:54:00.000-07:00

Hanging a door these days is easier than its ever been. In the days before prehung doors, it took more tools and knowledge to hang a door than it does now.

Imagine getting a door slab, an unassembled door jamb, hinges and door hardware and having to do all the mortising, drilling, rabbeting on site.

No longer do you need an array of tools such as a drill, a mortising jig for hinges, strikes, and bolt plate. No jig for drilling the backset for the doorknob and bolt.

Nowadays all you need is a hammer and hard trim nails or a finish nail gun and some shims.

The first thing you need to do is check the opening you'll be hanging the door in for the correct size. It should be 2" bigger than the door size. Even though it's a rough opening it should be reasonably plumb and square.

If the opening was framed by someone else, you may want to break out your level and framing square and check this also. Drywallers sometimes believe the rough opening was meant for them and will let the drywall run into the opening. If this is the case use a drywall saw or sawzall to cut it back.

Once all the vitals have been checked your ready to hang a door. Prehung doors come assembled a couple different ways. They can be bought with trim already mitered and nailed on to one side and without trim. If there is no trim installed, I like to put it on before I put the door in the opening. The trim is installed on the hinge side.

Most doors open into a room and against a wall. When putting the door into the opening, try to put the door in the center of the opening. The door jamb should be able to move to the left and right in the opening. The gap between the door and jamb on the hinge side is usually about an 1/8" of an inch. This dictates the gap or space you should have all around the door. Move the door jamb to the left or right until you have that same space at the top. You then nail the trim on the top hinge side and the bottom hinge side. Then nail the strike side on the top making sure you still have an equal space. Nail off the rest of the hinge side with 3 or 4 more nails. The 2 nails already in the top are all I usually put in. Now nail the rest of the strike side starting at the top and working your way down, maintaining the same space as the top and hinge side.

Once the door is nailed into the opening on the inside, it's time to shim the door jamb. First, pull the door closed to make sure it hits the door stop evenly on the strike side. If it is hitting only at the top pull the hinge side toward you till it hits even. If it hits only at the bottom, push the hinge side jamb away from you till it hits evenly.

Once you get the jamb aligned put shims between the jamb and stud opening, being careful not to bow the jamb into the opening. If need be use a straight edge to keep it straight. I put shims behind every hinge and the strike and also at the top and bottom of the strike side. I nail these shims in with two nails, one on each side of the stop.

The next step is to apply the door casing to the outside of the door. Once this is done, your ready for the door hardware. If everything went right, the bolt should engage the strike plate and the door should fit snuggly against the stops.

(c) 2005 Mike Merisko

www.sawkerfs.com

Cutting Rafters Easily and Efficiently

2006-08-23T20:48:00.000-07:00

One of the most time consuming tasks in homebuilding can be
the cutting of a roof. In some cases it can take as long to
cut and frame the roof as it does to frame the rest of the
house. It can also require a lot of space to get the job
done. It is in ones best interests to plan ahead during the
course of construction to be ready when it comes time to cut
the roof.

Whether the roof be a simple gable roof or a complex roof
with multiple hips and valleys you want to be able to cut
more than one rafter at a time. Sawhorses become a valuable
commodity during the roof cutting phase of construction.
Cutting a half dozen or more rafters is what you want to try
for. To achieve this there are a few options available to
the roof cutter.

If you only have one set of horses, nail an eight foot 2x4
flatwise to the top of them. This will allow you to mark and
cut six or more rafters depending on their width.

The second option is to use two pair of sawhorses. Just like
the previous option, nail a 2x4 flatwise over the top of two
horses. In this instance you are not limited to an eight
foot 2x4. You can use an 8, 10, 12, or even a 16' 2x4
depending on how much room you have to work in.

The third option is to make your own sawhorses out of a
2x10. Put legs on it just like a normal sawhorse. Again,
your only limitation is what you have available for length
of 2x10 and how much room you have to work.

Another time saver is to make a rafter pattern. To do this,
pick the straightest piece if lumber you can find from the
rafter material. Once you have determined the length of your
rafter from the plumb cut to the birdsmouth, the depth of
the birdsmouth, and the length of the rafter tail, transfer
this information to the material. After you have marked all
of this on the 2x, carefully and accurately cut the rafter.
This is going to be your pattern for the rest of the rafters
so you want to be precise with your cuts.

The next move is to nail stops to the top of the pattern.
Cut two pieces of plywood about 6" long by 2 1/2" wide. Nail
one to the top of the 2x about 2" from the plumb cut,
letting it hang over both edges of the 2x one half inch.
Nail the other piece just above the birdsmouth. You now have
a pattern to mark the rest of your rafters without having to
measure each and every one of them.

When you are ready to start cutting the rafters, lay as many
boards on the horse as you can and have enough room for the
saw to fit inbetween each one. When laying the boards on the
horses, have all the crowns pointing in the same direction
(When looking down a board while flat most boards are bowed
one way or the other. The convex side would be the crown).
Take the pattern and lay it on top of each board with the
plywood stops resting on the crowned edge and mark them.

You are now ready to cut rafters. When making your cuts, cut
the pencil line. Cut the plumb cut first and then move to
the birdsmouth and tail. Depending on how many rafters you
are cutting you may have to slide them back and forth so you
are not reaching over to far to make your cuts with the saw.
When cutting the birdsmouth it is okay to over cut it to
totally remove the material.

Homebuilding and cutting rafters can be a dangerous job.
Always exercise caution and safety when framing or using a
skilsaw.

Mike Merisko (C) 2006

www.sawkerfs.com